Sorges Notes

For a week at the end of January and the beginning of February, 1997, I was privileged to be part of a small group of food enthusiasts that became immersed in the food of the Périgord Blanc. For seven days and six nights we ate, cooked and dreamed about truffles and foie gras —two of the specialties of this region. Our host for the week was Pierre Corre, chef of the Auberge de la Truffe in Sorges en Périgord, France.

Organized by Patti Ravenscroft as “A Winter Indulgence in Truffles and Foie Gras,” we were presented a panache of regional sights and smells. From morning to noon to late at night, when we weren’t eating we were sight-seeing. When we weren’t sight-seeing we were cooking. When we weren’t cooking we were eating. Sometimes we even made it to bed before midnight.

For me, the highlight of the week was the cooking lessons, and of course, the lunches and dinners that followed. Besides teaching the specialties of the region, Chef Pierre shared with us many basics of preparation. Six months later, I find that I have had many occasions to use these techniques and reinforce what I had learned.

The recipes, as presented by Pierre and translated by Patti, were all usable back home. For me, recipes are best when they serve just two people. More than that and I’m stuck with leftovers—which I hate. Also, for the last twenty years, I’ve rewritten the recipes I like to cook. This allows the modifications I’ve learned from their preparation to be recorded in the recipe instructions and the various elements of the recipe placed in an order consistent with their need in the preparation.

The following recipes are my tested versions of the recipes presented by Pierre. Most have been modified to provide enough for just two servings, but the quantities can easily be increased. With each recipe I’ve added some personal comments that may help in preparation. In a couple of cases, I’ve added recipes from other sources that either have some relationship to the ones presented or that make up for dishes which Pierre prepared but for which he did not provide written recipes.

All of Pierre’s recipes are included except for three: Magret de Canard à la Royale; Truffe en Chausson; and Tarte aux Poires. The first two were not included because I don’t see myself preparing these dishes on a regular basis since I haven’t a steady source of large, fresh truffles. The tarte was excluded because I already have too many tarte recipes that I like.

While preparing the following recipes, I had the opportunity to go on a treasure hunt for the necessary ingredients. Some I found locally, but others were the results of the five trips to Paris that I made since February.

Since I had to put the recipes in some appropriate order, I’ve arranged them in the same order as the courses of a meal. Support recipes are at the end in a supplementary section. The sources for books and magazines mentioned in the accompanying descriptions are also listed at the end.

If you were one of those fortunate ones to have shared this adventure, I hope the recipes bring back fond memories. If not, maybe they will inspire you to go on one of the future trips to the Auberge de la Truffe.

Peter Hertzmann

Palo Alto, California

September, 1997

Contents

Les entrées

Les plats

Les légumes

Les desserts

Les ingrédients

A fresh terrine of foie gras is certainly a candidate for the symbol of our cooking experience in Sorges. (Truffe en Chausson would most likely be the other primary candidate.)

The foie gras that I’ve been able to find is about half the size that Pierre provided us. There has been a wide variety in prices — so I suggest shopping around.

For this recipe, I’ve adjusted the quantities for a smaller terrine. The hardest part of the recipe is to press the foie gras tightly into the terrine. Any air pockets will fill with yellow fat. When slicing, these pockets also create small, unsightly breaks in the slices.

I have not found the Pineau in the United States. I have found both dark and light Pineau in Paris with a variety of prices. Based on my interpretation of the flavor, a mellow, dry sherry could easily be substituted for the Pineau.

Foie Gras Frais en Terrine

14 ounces	fresh foie gras de canard
	Pineau de Charentes
	salt and fine, freshly ground pepper
	pork fat back, 1/16" thick
	flour and water mixed into a thick paste
12 to 18	baguette slices, lightly toasted

Devein foie gras. Place in a non–reactive bowl and sprinkle with pineau, salt and pepper. Mix and set aside overnight.
Line a 600 gram rectangular terrine with fat back allowing sufficient excess to fold back over top of terrine. Tightly pack foie gras into the terrine and level top. Fold fat back over the top of the foie gras. Place lid on top of terrine and seal with flour and water paste.
Preheat oven to 300 °F. Place terrine a bain marie and fill with hot water half way up the side of the terrine. Bake for about 50 minutes or until a skewer placed through the vent in the terrine lid feels warm when touched to the wrist.
Remove from bain marie and refrigerate terrine overnight.
To unmold, carefully run a knife around the inside surface of the sides of the terrine. Turn upside down and shake to loosen. Scrape yellow foie gras fat from surface and save for other uses. Trim one end to expose foie gras and serve with baguette slices.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Gerald Hirigoyen, a popular French–born and trained San Francisco chef, prepares this version of foie gras. The recipe is found on page 33 of his book, Bistro. The poaching and marinating liquid adds significant depth to the overall flavor.

An added benefit of this recipe is that no terrine is necessary. Also, the size of the roll is quite adaptable to the amount of foie gras available.

Foie Gras Poché au Vin Doux

about 1/2 pound	fresh foie gras de canard
	Pineau de Charentes
	salt and fine, freshly ground white pepper
1/2 cup	late harvest sweet wine
2 cups	veal or beef stock
	water
1	day–old baguette

Split the foie gras and clean with a small, sharp knife. Sprinkle with pineau, salt and pepper. Wrap in plastic wrap and set aside overnight.
Place the foie gras in the center a piece of muslin. Wrap the muslin very tightly around the foie gras to form a sausage shape. Tie the ends of the roll with string and along the length of the roll every 1-1/2 inches or so.
Combine the wine, stock and some salt and pepper in a small sauce pan and bring to a boil over medium–high heat. Carefully add the foie gras roll, return to a boil and gently poach for about 5 minutes, until slightly tender to the touch.
When done, place the foie gras in a bowl of ice and water for 1 minute, then remove and place in a deep rectangular terrine. Cool the stock in the ice and add to the terrine. If required, add water to the terrine to completely cover the foie gras. Cover and refrigerate for at least 24 hours or for up to 3 days
Before serving, cut the baguette into thin slices and toast until golden.
Remove the roll from the stock, snip off the strings and unwrap the foie gras. Slice into 12 slices and arrange on serving plates with the toast

Yield: 4 servings.

For me, learning how to clean and prepare sweetbreads was one of the highlights of the week with Pierre. In case you weren’t taking notes: soak the sweetbreads in water with salt and white vinegar for at least four hours. Drain and place in a large sauce pan with cold water. Bring to a boil. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes. Chill in an ice water bath until cool. Peel and set aside until ready for use.

Pierre’s recipe called for only frisée, but our frisée in California tends to be large and tough so I’ve mellowed it a bit with oak leaf lettuce. Also, his recipe called for braised sweetbreads, but I didn’t remember him showing this part of the recipe so I’ve substituted a sauté method based on a similar recipe that originally used chicken livers.

Salade de Ris de Veau aux Copeaux de Truffe

enough for 2 salads:
	oak leaf lettuce
	frisée greens
1 small	black truffle, peeled and thinly sliced
vinaigrette for greens:
	walnut oil
	sherry vinegar
	truffle juice
dash	salt and freshly ground pepper
for sweetbread sauté:
1 tablespoon	butter
1 small	shallot, finely sliced
1/2 to 3/4 pound	sweetbreads, blanched, peeled, cut into large, bite–sized pieces
	salt and freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup	port wine
2 tablespoons	heavy cream
1/2 tablespoon	minced Italian parsley

Place greens, truffle slices, salt and pepper in a bowl and set aside.
Heat butter over medium heat in a sauté pan. Sauté shallots until soft but not browned.
Increase heat and add sweetbread pieces. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Sauté sweetbreads until seared on all sides.
Add wine, then cream. Start to reduce. When sweetbreads are cooked, remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Continue to reduce sauce.
Mix greens with oil and vinegar. Arrange on serving plates.
When sauce is reduced, return sweetbreads to sauce and divide combination over greens.
Sprinkle with parsley and serve.

Yield: 2 servings.

If you don’t remember Pierre preparing this recipe — it’s not memory loss — he didn’t prepare it. I found this in a copy of Cuisiner! Magazine that I picked up when I got back to Paris after the course. After watching Pierre prepare his crêpe batter, I needed more practice. So this recipe and the one on page 20 are for those who, like me, needed more input before I could say: “Batter up!”

I’ve only found the gouda with cumin required for this recipe in the Netherlands, and after lugging a pound of it back on one trip, my wife and I decided that its flavor was too strong for the dish to be satisfying. Since the original attempt, I’ve tried French gruyére, and that worked very well.

Aumônière aux Poireaux

crêpes:
3/4 milk	milk
1	egg, beaten
1 tablespoon	melted butter
125 grams	flour
garniture:
4	small leeks, white part cut into thin rounds (blanch the green portions and marinate in a simple vinaigrette, set aside for garnish)
1 tablespoon	butter
	salt and pepper
1 tablespoon	heavycream
100 grams	gouda with cumin, small dice
4 sprigs	chives, blanched

Prepare crêpe batter. Let rest for an hour.
In the meantime, melt butter in a sauté pan. Sauté the leeks until soft over medium–low heat. Add salt and pepper and set aside.
Prepare 4 large crêpes in a buttered pan over medium–low heat. Cover with foil and keep warm.
Reheat the leeks and combine with the cream and cheese. Place a crêpe over a small bowl and spoon one–quarter of the filling onto the center of the crêpe. Pleat the edges of the crêpe and fold into a “beggar’s purses”. Tie with a sprig of chive. Repeat with the other 3 crêpes.
Place a filled crêpe in the center of a serving plate and garnish the area around with blanched leeks.

Yield: 4 servings.

This is one of those great cold night comfort dishes. It’s quick enough to prepare after work. Except for the time it takes to peel and mince a head of garlic, the dish pretty much prepares itself. The garlic cooks to a mellow level so don’t scrimp on the quantity. If you don’t have Madeira handy, any mellow, fortified sweet wine will work adequately for this dish.

I like a large helping of Purée de Pommes de Terre (mashed potatoes) as a side dish, but there never seems to be enough sauce.

Compotée de Lapin au l’Ail

1 (about 2-1/2 pounds)	rabbit, cut into 6 to 8 pieces with organs attached
	oil
1 head	garlic, peeled, trimmed and minced (about 2 ounces)
1 cup	white wine
1/2 cup	Madeira
	salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon	minced chives (optional)

In a shallow pan large enough to hold the rabbit in a single layer, heat oil over high heat. Brown rabbit pieces on all sides. Add garlic and mix. Add wine and madeira, bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer for about an hour.
About half way through the cooking, season with salt and pepper.
When done, remove rabbit, set aside and keep warm. Reduce the sauce slightly to thicken.
Arrange rabbit on serving plates, cover with sauce and sprinkle with chopped sides.

Yield: 2 servings.

Of all the recipes I learned at the Auberge de la Truffe, this may be my favorite. The sauce is luscious — extremely so. Oh it’s good!

Pierre prepared this dish with a tenderloin of beef, which works well for four to six people. For two people, I found that a large sirloin provided appropriate servings. Although the texture of a sirloin is coarser than a tenderloin, this version still feels good and tastes great.

By the time the dish is plated, I’ve probably reduced the sauce to about a quarter cup. It should be naturally thick and very smooth.

Since I can’t get cèpes easily, or cheaply, in California, large brown “portabello” mushrooms are substituted for the original in the recipe. The gills are removed so the dish doesn’t darken.

The foie gras in this dish is extremely delicate. Be sure it is well chilled when dicing it, and keep it chilled until it’s ready to cook. Sauté it only briefly, or there won’t be anything left but fat.

Faux-Filet à la Duxelles de Foie Gras

1-1/3 cups	veal stock
1/3 cup	port wine
2 tablespoons	cognac
1 tablespoon	duck fat
1/4 pound	large brown mushrooms, gills removed, 3/16" to 1/4" dice
	coarse salt
12 ounces	sirloin steak
3 ounces	foie gras, 1/4" dice
	salt and freshly ground white pepper

Preheat oven to 450 °F.
Reduce stock and port by one–half to two–thirds. Add cognac, burn off alcohol, and continue to reduce. Cover and keep warm until ready to use.
Melt duck fat in a small sauté pan over medium heat. Sauté mushrooms until cooked and soft. Set aside.
Heat a cast iron pan over high heat until very hot. Salt meat and brown quickly on both sides. Finish in oven. Remove from oven, place on a plate, tent with foil and allow to rest for 5 minutes.
When meat is ready, slice into 8 thick slices on the bias and arrange on two plates. Reheat mushrooms over high heat. Add foie gras and cook slightly. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange in three portions on each plate between the slices of meat. Nappe with sauce.

Yield: 2 servings.

The hardest part of making this dish is to find the right fish. The fish called for in the original recipe doesn’t exist in the United States. Orange roughy works, but it’s still not the same as what Pierre served.

Although the cream is optional, I would highly recommend including it. The small amount of cream called for definitely smoothes out the dish.

Pierre served this recipe wrapped in foil—which Jean Marc creatively opened at the table. I have lots of parchment so I prefer to serve the fish in this wrapper instead.

Papillote de Sandre Sur Son Lit de Poireaux

1 tablespoon	butter
3 tablespoons	olive oil
6 ounces	leeks, mostly white portion, 1/8" thick slices
	salt and freshly ground white pepper
3/4 pound	pike–perch fillets (orange roughy or catfish are good substitutes)
1 tablespoon	heavy cream [optional]

Preheat oven to 400 °F.
Melt butter and 1 tablespoon oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add leeks and sauté until softened. Salt lightly and set aside.
Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a sauté pan over high heat. Quickly brown fish fillets. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and set aside.
On a piece of parchment paper, place half the leeks. Place half the fish on top of the leeks and top with a half tablespoon of cream (optional). Seal the edges of the paper and set on a baking sheet. Repeat with a second piece of parchment paper and the remaining ingredients.
Bake for about 7 minutes.
Open the paper packets and slide the contents onto individual serving plates.

Yield: 2 servings.

This recipe is a quick and easy mid-week main dish that can be prepared in a few minutes.

Because of the amount of starch (flour) added to the sauce, less reduction is necessary than if only stock and cream were used. Because of the starch, the sauce will also thicken further if cooled totally and then reheated.

Saumon aux Champignons

1 tablespoon	olive oil
1/4 pound	large brown mushrooms, cut into 1/8" chunks
2/3 cup	fish stock, or chicken stock
2 tablespoons	butter
1 tablespoon	flour
2/3 cup	heavy cream
1 tablespoon	truffle juice [optional]
	salt
1 pound	fresh salmon filets

Heat oil over medium heat in a small sauté pan. Sauté mushrooms until cooked. If they become too dry, add a small amount of water. When done, drain if necessary and set aside.
Reduce the fish stock over high heat. When reduced by half, set aside. Melt butter in a small sauce pan over medium heat and add flour. When flour is cooked, whisk in reduced stock, cream, and truffle juice. When mixed and thickened, add reserved mushrooms. Salt to taste. Set aside until salmon is ready.
Salt salmon. Heat olive oil in a sauté pan over medium high heat. Cook salmon until almost done. Set aside, tented with foil, for 5 minutes. Plate and top with sauce.

Yield: 2 servings.

The challenge in this recipe for me was finding the verjus. I finally found some in Paris that was produced in Perigueux. Since then, I’ve found a variety produced in the Napa Valley, but I haven’t tried this brand, yet.

The verjus I found doesn’t include any of the original grapes so I’ve substituted golden raisins as an alternative. The raisins provide a bit of sweetness that isn’t present with the whole, unripe grapes of the original recipe.

Locally, the cost difference between buying boned and de-boned trout is minimal. The advantage in boning the trout yourself is that you control the appearance and condition of the raw trout before stuffing. Proper boning makes it easier to form the trout into the final shape after stuffing.

Truite au Verjus

2	trout, about 7 ounces each (or 6 ounces if boned)
	olive oil
stuffing:
1/2 tablespoon	olive oil
1/2 tablespoon	minced shallots
1 clove	garlic, minced
1/2 ounce	dried cèpes, reconstituted, drained and minced
1 ounce	coarse bread without crust, 1/4" dice
1 ounce	dry white wine
3 ounces	lean, ground pork
	salt and freshly gorund pepper
sauce:
3 tablespoons	minced shallots
1/3 cup	dry white wine
1/4 cup	verjus
2 tablespoons	golden raisins
	salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons	chilled butter, 1/4" cubes

If trout are not already boned, do so and set aside.
Heat oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Sauté shallots, garlic and cèpes until shallots are tender. Set aside to cool.
Soak bread cubes in wine to soften. When shallots are cool, add to soaked bread, parsley, pork and salt and pepper. Mix well and keep cool until ready to use.
Stuff trout with stuffing. Flatten both sides of the trout — do not over stuff. Heat a small amount of oil in a sauté pan large enough to hold the trout in a single layer over medium heat.
Cook the trout about 5 to 6 minutes on the first side. Carefully flip and cook the second side about 3 or so minutes. Set aside for 5 minutes, tented with foil.
In the mean time, bring the first four sauce ingredients to a rapid boil in a wide sauté pan. Cook until reduced greatly. If the trout are not ready yet, set aside.
Plate trout. Reheat sauce, remove from heat and incorporate chilled butter. Spoon sauce over trout and serve immediately.

Yield: 2 servings.

This is another recipe that I’ve added to the group that Pierre presented. (I really can’t get enough sweetbread dishes ) This recipe is loosely adapted from one found on page 24 of the September, 1996 issue of Bon Appétit.

Ris de Veau Braisés aux Champignons

2 tablespoons	butter
1/2 cup	chopped leek (white part only)
2 teaspoons	minced garlic
6 to 8 ounces	medium brown mushrooms, quartered
3/4 pound	sweetbreads, blanched, peeled and cut into large, bite–size pieces
1/3 cup	dry Marsala
1/3 cup	beef broth
	salt and freshly ground pepper

Melt butter in sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add leek and garlic and sauté until almost tender, about 5 minutes.
Increase heat and add mushrooms. Sauté a bit to soften. Add sweetbreads and continue to sauté to color slightly.
Add Marsala and broth. Reduce sauce. Season with salt and pepper. If sweetbreads are done before sauce is reduced, remove from pan.
Combine cooked sweetbreads with sauce and serve.

Yield: 2 servings.

This is an original recipe that was inspired by a similar dish at Restaurant Batifole in Paris. I ate the dish the day before we met in Limoges. For me it was part of the same trip.

I’ve served this dish a half a dozen times to guests and it has been very popular. The sauce can be prepared through step 3 before the guests come and just finished at the end.

Blancs de Volaille Nappé de Sauce au Basilic

2 tablespoons	butter
1 tablespoon	olive oil
1	chicken breast, boneless, skinless, trimmed into 2 halves
	salt and freshly ground white pepper
1 tablespoon	minced shallots
1 cup	chicken broth
1/4 cup	dry vermouth
1/4 cup	Marsala
1/2 cup	heavy cream
6 large	fresh basil leaves, chiffonnade
dash	balsamic vinegar

Preheat oven to 400 °F.
Heat 1 tablespoon butter along with oil in a sauté pan over high heat. Season chicken breasts with salt and pepper and sauté until the first side is browned—about a minute. Turn and brown other side. Place pan in oven until chicken is almost cooked. Remove from oven, tent and set aside.
Meanwhile, melt 1 tablespoon butter in a sauté pan over medium heat. Sauté shallots until soft. Add broth, vermouth, marsala and cream. Bring to a boil and reduce by three–quarters.
When sauce is ready, add basil leaves and vinegar. Set aside and keep warm.
Slice breasts on the bias and arrange in a fan shape on individual serving plates. Top with sauce.

Yield: 4 servings.

It seems that no matter how much I have of these onions, its not enough. Be careful during the end of the reduction process not to reduce the wine and sugar to the point that the sugar starts to burn.

Confiture d’Oignons

1/4 cup (about 60 grams)	duck fat
1 pound	onions, peeled, trimmed and sliced lengthwise into 1/8" shreds
1/2 cup	dry white wine
1/2 cup (about 100 grams)	sugar
	salt and freshly ground white pepper

Heat duck fat in a sauté pan over medium heat until melted. Add onions and sauté gently until slightly caramelized and soft.
Add wine and sugar, bring to a boil and reduce until the wine has evaporated. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Drain remaining fat and set aside to cool.

Note: If refrigerated, bring to room temperature before serving.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

This is a recipe that I compiled based on watching Pierre prepare potatoes and mushrooms in that unheated kitchen the day we went to Bergerac.

The potatoes used that day had a very watery texture when raw. I don’t know if this is important for the dish, but the Yukon gold variety seems to work. It would be nice to have access to cèpes like in France, but other mushrooms seem to work fine with this recipe. If you have some fat from preparing foie gras, the dish is even better.

Pommes de Terre à la Sarladaise

4 tablespoons	goose or duck fat
3/4 pound	small new potatoes (Yukon gold preferred), cut into 1/4" thick slices
	salt
3/8 pound	mushrooms, (cèpes or cremini mushrooms preferred) cut into small pieces
	fine, freshly ground black pepper

In a small sauté pan over medium high heat, melt 2 tablespoons fat and sauté potatoes until brown and cooked. Salt potatoes part way through cooking. If they become too brown before being cooked through, lower heat.
Meanwhile, in a small sauté pan over medium low heat, melt 2 tablespoons fat and sauté mushrooms until well cooked.
When both are cooked, combine mushrooms with potatoes, test for salt and add pepper.

Yield: 2 servings.

The original recipe presented by Pierre used eau de noix. I have not been able to find this liqueur in Paris, or in the San Francisco Bay Area, so I’ve substituted walnut extract. The first four ingredients constitute a traditional pastry cream — so if you’re familiar with its preparation — you’re half way there.

I don’t recall if Pierre served this dish with the chocolate sauce called for in the recipe, but I find the chocolate sauce too sweet for the gâteau. A standard crème anglaise or a fresh fruit coulis could certainly be substituted.

This is an ideal desert to make in advance because it requires freezing. (Actually, it can’t be made at the last minute.) If your freezer is too cold or if you freeze the gâteau too long it will become a bit icy in texture.

Gâteau Glacé aux Noix

1 cup	milk
4	egg yolks
105 grams	sugar
25 grams	all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon	walnut extract
75 grams	chopped walnuts
4	egg whites

Heat the milk in a sauce pan until it just begins to boil. Meanwhile, cream egg yolks and 35 grams sugar with a whisk. Thoroughly whisk in flour. When milk is hot, whisk into egg yolk mixture. Return mixture to heat and whisk until thickened. Remove from heat and continue to whisk until smooth and light. Add walnut extract and nuts. Mix well and set aside to cool.
Beat egg whites until soft peaks are formed. Add 70 grams sugar and continue beating until stiff. Fold into egg yolk mixture, pour into a mold (4" x 8" loaf pan) and freeze for 6 to 8 hours.

Note: When serving, cut into slices and serve with chocolate sauce made from bittersweet chocolate, sugar and cream.

Yield: 4 servings.

This is a nice dish when strawberries are cheap and ripe — which is all summer long in California.

Sabayon de Fruits Rouges au Monbazillac

6 ounces	red berries, such as raspberries or strawberries
2	egg yolks
3 tablespoons	sugar
1/3 cup	Monbazillac, or other dessert wine

Preheat broiler.
Arrange berries in individual serving dishes, such as gratin dishes, and set aside.
In a double boiler (or sabayon pan if available) whisk egg yolks and sugar over high heat until the mixture thickens and forms a ribbon.
Add the wine and continue to whisk until mixture thickens. Pour over berries and brown in broiler for 1 minute.

Yield: 2 servings.

The crepes portion of this recipe approximates the thick crepes that Pierre prepared. He served plain, sugared crepes with a rum sauce.

I found this recipe in the issue of Cuisiner! (February 1997, page 14) that I bought in Paris after the course in Sorges. It’s very popular with guests.

Crêpes Flambées

crêpes:
180 grams (about 1-1/4 cup)	all-purpose flour
300 milliliters (about 1-1/3 cups)	milk
2	eggs, beaten
40 grams (about 5 tablespoons)	powdered sugar
40 grams (about 3 tablespoons)	melted butter
1/2 teaspoon	salt
1 tablespoon	dark rum
filling:
2 medium	firm, green apples
2	firm pears
2	firm bananas
75 grams (about 9-1/2 tablespoons)	powdered sugar
2 tablespoons	sherry
75 grams (about 5-1/2 tablespoons)	buttrer
sauce:
100 milliliters	dark rum
3 tablespoons	sugar

For crêpes: place flour in a bowl. Slowly add milk, whisking constantly, until a smooth batter is achieved. Add eggs and combine. Add sugar, butter, salt and rum and mix. Let mixture rest for at least an hour.
For filling: peel, core and dice apples and pears into 1/4" cubes. Peel bananas, halve lengthwise and slice into 1/4" thick pieces. Place fruit in a bowl and combine well with sugar and sherry. Set aside to macerate for about 15 minutes.
Melt butter in a large sauté pan until nut–like. Add fruit and cook until it starts to caramelize. (The bananas will begin to dissolve and the fruit will thicken.) Set aside until the crêpes are ready.
Preheat oven to 260 °F.
Heat a 10" nonstick sauté pan over medium low heat. When warm, pour a scant 1/4 cup of batter into the center of the pan and swirl around slowly to fill the bottom of the pan. When the edges begin to brown, flip crêpe and brown the opposite side. Stack on a plate while the remainder of the crêpes are being prepared. (Cooked crêpes my be made ahead, wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated for a couple of days.)
Fill each crêpe with a bit of filling, roll up and place seam side down on a baking sheet. Warm in oven for 10 minutes.
While crêpes are heating, combine rum and sugar in a small sauce pan.
When filled crêpes are heated through, place two or three on individual serving plates. Bring sauce to a boil, ignite and pour over crêpes.

Yield: 12 to 14 filled crêpes.

I like this sauce for beef dishes, and it’s a good way to use up truffle scraps. If your stock is good, this sauce will be good.

Sauce Perigueux aux Truffes

1 teaspoon	duck fat (foie gras fat if available)
1/2	shallot, minced
1 teaspoon	flour
1 tablespoon	cognac
1 tablespoon	Madeira
2 cups	veal stock
	salt and freshly ground white pepper
10 grams	truffle, finely minced (with juice)

Sweat shallots in fat. Add flour and mix. Add cognac and Madeira and mix until smooth. Add stock in a couple of batches. Stir until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.
Simmer for about an hour until the sauce is reduced by two–thirds.
Strain sauce and add truffles to sauce. Heat gently.

Yield: 2/3 cup.

For a good Sauce Perigueux aux Truffes you’ll need a good Fond de Veau. Since we didn’t get a recipe from Pierre, I’ve found one that works well on page 12 of Gerald Hirigoyen’s Bistro.

Fond de Veau

2 pounds	large veal bones
1/2	white onion, coarsely chopped
1 whole	clove
1	carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped
3 cloves	garlic
1 stalk	celery, coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons	tomato paste
1	bouquet garni made from 2 sprigs parsley, 2 sprigs thyme and 1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon	whole black peppercorns
1 cup	hot water

Preheat oven to 500 °F. Place the veal bones in a roasting pan and roast for 20 minutes. Add the onion, clove, carrot, garlic, celery and tomato paste and roast for an additional 15 minutes, until the vegetables are lightly browned.
Transfer the veal bones and the vegetables to a stock pot. Add the bouquet garni and peppercorns. Discard any fat in the roasting pan and deglaze with hot water. Pour the liquid into the stockpot.
Add water to the stockpot to cover the ingredients and bring to a boil. Skim off any foam that forms. Reduce to low and simmer for about 3 hours until the liquid is reduced by about half.
Strain the stock through a fine sieve. Discard the contents of the sieve. Cool and remove any fat that collects on top of the chilled stock.

Yield: about 1 quart.

References

Gerald Hirigoyen, Bistro, Sunset Publishing Co, Menlo Park CA, 1995.

Hirigoyen has produced an excellent book of bistro cooking from his native France. Besides operating two restaurants in San Francisco, he also teaches occasional cooking courses — which are always great. The recipes for Foie Gras Poché au Vin Doux and Fond de Veau are adapted from his book.

Cuisiner!, Vanves, France, February 1997.

I purchased this magazine when we had free time in Bergerac. The recipes for Aumôniere aux Poireaux and Crepes Flambées are adapted from this magazine.

Vicky Jones, Dordogne Gastronomique, Abbeville Press Publishers, New York NY, 1994.

I found this book after returning from the course. There are a number of recipes similar to the ones we learned from Pierre. The Auberge and Pierre are mentioned in the book, as well.

Genevieve de Temmerman and Didier Chedorge, The A-Z of French Food, Editions Scribo, Paris, France, 1988.

Genevieve de Temmerman and Didier Chedorge, Cartes et Menus de Restaurant, Editions Scribo, Paris, France, 1995.

The above books provided reference for proper spelling and word order of recipe titles.