The selection of cheeses presented for the cheese course at a fine French restaurant may be only a mere handful or more than a few dozen. On different occasions I’ve been presented with a simple tray of cheeses to a two-level cart crammed chockablock. In France there’re cheeses made from cow’s milk, cheeses made from goat’s milk, and cheeses made from sheep’s milk. Some cheeses are very fresh, light in taste, and barely a few days old. Others have dry, gnarly surfaces, and a very sharp taste. Some are so soft that they flow over the plate, while others are dry and crumbly. The selection of cheeses may be limited to those available locally or there may be cheeses from all over France. Some cheeses will only be available seasonally while others are available throughout the year.

The waiter brings the tray or the board or the cart with the cheeses, describes each one, and requests your selection. You, the diner, choose two or three, or even four, to try. Along with a small portion of each cheese selected, you are served a roll or a couple of slices of bread, even a selection of a variety of breads.

The cheese course comes just before the dessert course, but some diners forego dessert and finish their meal with cheese. Some have cheese plus a little fruit. Even at home, it is not uncommon for the French to have a little cheese at the end of their meal, although the selection is usually more limited than in a restaurant.

At home or in a casual restaurant, fromage frais (fresh cheese) may be mixed with a little cream, sugar, or jam and served as a dessert. Or the fresh cheese may be baked into a tart, such as tarte au fromage blanc, and served as a dessert.

Some cheeses are manufactured in large factories. Others are manufactured by a small fromagerie and sent to a cooperative for aging. One fromagère I met in the Dordogne used the entire output of her husband’s three cows to produce a very well-drained, and very tasty, fromage frais that was sold only to a few local restaurants. But this small fromagerie producing a few kilograms of cheese each day from three smelly cows has to follow the same government health and safety regulations as the large factory that daily produces thousands of kilograms of cheese.

Many cheeses fall into a general category, such as Roquefort or Camembert, and must meet government regulations as to how much dry material and fat they contain, how long they are aged, and how they are aged. Other cheeses are unique, such as the cheese from the three cows described above, and the only standards set are those of the individual fromager. There are over 40 cheeses that carry the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée indication; these have to meet the strictest regulations of standardization of all.

Cheeses packaged for sale in a supermarket in France will usually indicate the percent matière grasse, an indication of the amount of fat in the cheese. This number is a bit misleading because the percent is not relative to the whole quantity of cheese. The figure is an indication of how much of the dry matter is fat. For example, if a cheese is 60% water and 40% dry matter, and the fat content is indicated as 45%, 45% of the 40%, or 18%, of the total piece of cheese is fat. A 100-gram piece of this cheese would contain 18 grams of fat. Because the French government often regulates the amount of dry matter and fat that a cheese must contain, the absolute fat content is, by derivation, also regulated. Two cheeses with the same indication of matière grasse may have much different amounts of total fat if their water contents differ significantly. A fromage frais may be 80% water, whereas an aged comté may only be 40% water. By weight, the comté would contain twice as much fat as the fromage frais.

No one knows exactly how many different cheeses are produced in France on a given day. When de Gaulle made his famous statement—“How can anyone govern a nation that has 246 different kinds of cheese?”—the number was already large. More recently I have heard from various sources that the number is jsut under 500, slightly more than 600, or somewhere in between. Whatever the number, it’s certainly a large variety of cheeses.

But that doesn’t mean that all cheeses are available everywhere. Many years ago, my wife and I were enjoying a fabulous dinner in the Jura. She tasted a cheese that was new to her and asked the waiter to write the name down so she could buy some later during our trip. A week or so later, in a cheese shop in Antibes, a couple of hundred kilometers to the south, she asked the proprietor for this same cheese. His response was that he, one, did not carry the cheese, two, had never heard of it, and three, could not understand why anyone would ask for it. It was our first encounter with the French attitude towards cheese where local varieties are favored over those from other regions. Later, when we looked for the cheese in Paris, we couldn’t find it there either. When we returned to our home in Northern California, we found the cheese at a grocery store three blocks down the street from our home and at other stores close to where we live. We found it easier to purchase this cheese from a small French village in California than in France!

For many years, whenever we had dinner guests, we would present a platter of five or six French cheeses between the main course and dessert. The cheeses would be accompanied by fresh bread or rolls and a small, light, green salad. One evening in Brittany, the waiter suggested a terrine de Roquefort instead of the cheese selection. It was a fabulous suggestion—one that I have now followed many times since I returned home. It was nice to substitute other cheese preparations for the cheese platter. So I started a search for other cheese-based recipes. The results of that search are the 15 recipes in this article. Some of these recipes include some form of salad, but for others, the salad is just a nice addition.

©2005, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
beignets de Vinzel
250 g (12 lb)
Gruyere cheese, grated
112 T
all‑purpose flour
1 large
egg
1 clove
garlic, pureed
12 T
kirsch
50 ml (313 T)
white wine
freshly ground black pepper
freshly ground nutmeg
1. Combine all ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer, fitted with a paddle, until smooth.
2. Using 2 large soup spoons, form the cheese mixture into quenelles. Place the quenelles on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Freeze until solid.
3. Heat oil for deep‑frying to 180°C (355°F) and preheat an oven to 180°C (355°F). Deep‑fry the frozen quenelles just to brown the outside. Finish quenelles in the oven for a minute or two.
Yield: about 15 beignets.
Ref: Frédéric Médigue, Hostellerie St. Georges, Gruyères, Switzerland, 2004.
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©2005, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
cake de concombre au basilic
200 g (scant 12 lb)
English cucumber, halved, seeded, cut into 3‑mm (18‑in) square slivers
250 g (12+ lb)
fromage blanc
100 g (7 T)
heavy cream
12 T
lemon juice
75 ml (5 T)
water
1 t
dehydrated chicken stock
6 g (4 leaves)
gelatin, softened in cold water
fine salt and freshly ground white pepper
3 large leaves
fresh basil, very fine chiffonade
1. Blanch the cucumber pieces in heavily salted water for 2 minutes. Shock in an ice‑water bath, Drain very well. Set aside.
2. Whisk the fromage blanc, heavy cream, and lemon juice together. Place the water and dehydrated stock in a small saucepan and heat until the stock is dissolved. Drain the gelatin and add to the saucepan. Stir until the gelatin is dissolved completely. Whisk the stock mixture into the fromage blanc mixture. Season with salt and pepper. Add the blanched cucumbers and basil to the mixture. Combine well.
3. Pour the mixture into a 450‑g (1‑lb) terrine and set in the refrigerator to gel.
4. Carefully remove the cake from the terrine and wrap in a single layer of plastic wrap. Refrigerate until service.
5. Place the cake on a flat cutting board. Use a knife heated in hot water to slice it. As each slice is made, transfer the slice to a chilled serving plate. Remove the plastic wrap after the slice is placed on the plate.
Yield: 6 servings.
Ref: Cuisine et Vins de France, May 2000, page 24.
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©2005, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
fromage de chèvre pistache aux copeaux de jambon
soft unsalted butter
5 large, thin slices
prosciutto
300 g (1012 oz)
fresh goat cheese, at room temperature
100 ml (scant 12 c)
heavy cream
50 g (134 oz)
chopped pistachios
freshly ground black pepper
125 g (14 lb)
salad greens
extra virgin olive oil
white wine vinegar
fine salt
1 T
finely minced chives
1. Carefully butter 4 small, domed molds and place in a freezer.
2. Dice 2 of the prosciutto slices.
3. Break the cheese up with a fork. Mix in the cream. Add 40 g (138 oz) of pistachios and three‑fourths of the diced prosciutto. Season with pepper. Mix until smooth. Remove the molds from the freezer and divide the cheese mixture between them. Firmly tamp the mixture into the molds. Refrigerate for an hour.
4. Cut each of the remaining prosciutto slices lengthwise into 4 strips.
5. Mix the salad greens with the oil, vinegar, and salt. Divide between individual serving plates.
6. Remove the cheese from the mold by placing the molds in hot water for a few seconds. Place one on the center of each plate. Sprinkle the remaining diced prosciutto and pistachios over the cheese. Attractively arrange 3 prosciutto strips on each plate. Sprinkle the plates with chives.
Note: Once the cheese has firmed up in the refrigerator, it can be removed from the mold and set on a plate in the refrigerator until needed.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Guide Cuisine, October 2001, page 18.
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©2005, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
galettes aux deux fromages
100 g (1112 T)
all‑purpose flour
100 g (312 oz)
soft unsalted butter
100 g (312 oz)
finely grated Gruyère cheese
pin
salt
about 12 T
heavy cream
additional
all‑purpose flour, for dusting
1 extra‑large
egg yolk, beaten with 12 t water
25 g (1 oz)
finely grated mimolette cheese
freshly ground black pepper
1. Preheat oven to 180°C (355°F).
2. Place the flour, butter, Gruyère cheese, and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Process just until the dough gathers into a ball. If the dough is crumbly, add a small amount of cream and process briefly again. The dough will be very soft and sticky.
3. Turn the dough out onto a well‑floured board. Using a well‑floured rolling pin, roll the dough to a thickness of 3 mm (18 in). Cut 6‑cm (238‑in) round disks from the dough. Transfer the disks to a non‑stick baking sheet.
4. Lightly brush the disks with the egg yolk. Place a pinch of mimolette in the center of each disk. Top the cheese with a small grind of black pepper.
5. Bake the disks until crisp and browned, about 20 minutes.
Note: Serve the disks warm with a green salad.
Yield: 30 galettes.
Ref: Guy Martin, Toute la cuisine, 2003, page 201.
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©2005, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
gratin de Camembert aux pommes
butter
for the dishes
1 T
unsalted butter
1 medium
sweet apple, peeled, cored, cut into 10 wedges
250 g (12 lb)
Camembert, crust removed, cubed
112 T
whole milk
4 leaves
fresh tarragon, very finely sliced
freshly ground white pepper
1. Butter individual gratin dishes and set aside. Preheat oven to 180°C (355°F).
2. Heat a tablespoon of butter in a small frying pan over medium heat. Cook the apple wedges in a single layer until browned a bit. Turn the wedges and brown the other side.
3. Arrange 4 wedges in each of the prepared dishes in an orderly manner. Cut the remaining wedges into 5 pieces each and divide them among the dishes.
4. Place the cheese in a small saucepan over low heat. When the cheese starts to melt, add the milk. Stir continuously until the cheese sauce is smooth. Do not over heat, or the fat will separate from the cheese and the sauce will be ruined. Add the tarragon and a little pepper to the sauce. Mix well.
5. Spoon the sauce evenly over the apple wedges. Bake until heated through, about 6 minutes.
6. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool slightly before serving.
Notes: If desired, the tops of the apples can be browned a little more just before serving with a torch. The dish can be prepared in advance up to the point of baking. If baked cold, increase the baking time by a couple of minutes.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Cuisine et Vins de France, September 2001, page 53.
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©2005, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
petits clafoutis de Camembert
soft unsalted butter
1, 250‑g (8‑oz), wheel
Camembert
2 large
eggs, beaten
120 ml (12 c)
heavy cream
leaves from 4 sprigs
fresh chervil, minced
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
freshly ground nutmeg, to taste
1. Butter 4 small, 712‑cm (3‑in) baking dishes. Arrange the dishes on a baking sheet. Preheat the oven to 180°C (355°F).
2. Lightly scrape some of the surface coating off the cheese. Cut the cheese in half, parallel to the flat sides, making 2 discs. Cut each disc into 8 wedges. Arrange 4 wedges, surface coating side up, in each of the baking dishes.
3. Whisk together the eggs, cream, chervil, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Divide the mixture between the baking dishes.
4. Bake until the custard is browned and puffy, about 25 to 30 minutes.
5. Allow to cool briefly before serving.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: ELLE à la table, September‑October 2000, page 160.
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©2005, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
petits flans au roquefort et lardons
1 T
soft unsalted butter
2 large
eggs
2 large
egg yolks
200 ml (1312 T)
heavy cream
100 g (312 oz)
Roquefort cheese, crumbled with a fork
1 t
all‑purpose flour
4 t
minced chives
1 pinch
cayenne pepper
1 pinch
grated nutmeg
75 g (212 oz)
smoked bacon, cut into 3‑mm (18‑in) square strips
1. Preheat oven to 200°C (390°F). Prepare 4 small, 115‑g (4‑oz), ramekins by brushing their interiors with the soft butter.
2. Whisk the eggs, egg yolks, and cream together, and combine with the cheese, flour, half the chives, pepper, and nutmeg in the jar of a blender. Process at high speed. Strain. Divide the mixture between the ramekins.
3. Place the ramekins in a water bath with the water filled two‑thirds the height of the ramekins. Cover the ramekins with a piece of parchment paper and bake until firm, about 35 minutes.
4. Let the ramekins rest, out of the water bath, for a couple of minutes before removing the flans.
5. Before serving, cook the bacon in a frying pan until hot, but not crisp. Drain briefly.
6. Remove the custards from the ramekins directly on individual serving plates. Divide the bacon over the flans. Sprinkle the remaining chives over the tops.
Note: The original recipe called for strips of cold jambon de pays instead of the bacon.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Daniel Lagrange, as presented on Bon Appétit Bien Sur, France TV3.
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©2005, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
petits quenelles de fromage frais aux herbes vertes
12
white onion, peeled, grated
1 clove
garlic, peeled, grated
300 g (34 lb)
fromage blanc, well drained
1 t
Dijon‑style mustard
110 ml (12 c)
heavy cream, beaten until thickened, but not firm
12 t
freshly ground white pepper
fine salt
2 T
very finely minced parsley
2 T
very finely minced chives
1. Combine the onion, garlic, cheese, mustard, cream, pepper, and salt in a bowl. Whisk until smooth. Place the mixture in a strainer lined with fine cheesecloth and drain in the refrigerator for 12 to 24 hours.
2. Before serving, shape the cheese into quenelles with two large spoons. Roll the quenelles in the herbs. Gently press the herbs into place.
3. Place 2 quenelles one each plate and serve.
Note: Accompany cheese with prepared salad greens and toasted bread.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Roger Vergé, Roger Vergé’s Entertaining in the French Style, page 112.
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©2005, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
pressé de légumes au fromage frais
1 narrow, about 150 g (13 lb)
eggplant
1 medium, about 150 g (13 lb)
zucchini
olive oil
1 large
red bell pepper, halved and seeded
2
tomatoes, peeled, halved, seeded
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper
50 ml (313 T)
heavy cream
4 g
gelatin leaves, softened in cold water
250 g (12+ lb)
fromage blanc
12 T
coarsely chopped, fresh cilantro
12 T
coarsely chopped, fresh parsley
12 T
finely minced fresh chives
1. Line a 450‑g (1‑lb) terrine with plastic wrap and set aside.
2. Preheat broiler. Cut three or four 1‑cm (38‑in) thick slices, lengthwise, from the eggplant and zucchini. (There should be sufficient slices of each to form a single layer in the terrine.) Brush the slices with olive oil. Place the slices on baking sheet. Cook the vegetable slices under the broiler for 5 to 10 minutes on each side until slightly brown. Set aside to cool on a plate.
3. Place the red pepper halves on a baking sheet and cook under the broiler until the skin is charred and the flesh is soft. Set aside on a plate to cook. Remove the skin when cool.
4. Preheat the oven to 160°C (320°F). Place the tomato halves, round‑side up, on a parchment‑paper covered baking sheet. Sprinkle the tomato halves with a little salt and pepper. Bake for 30 to 45 minutes until soft. Set aside to cool.
5. Heat the cream slightly in a small saucepan. Drain the gelatin and dissolve in the cream. Whisk the cream mixture into the cheese. Mix in the herbs.
6. Carefully place a single layer of zucchini slices on the bottom of the terrine. Evenly spread one‑third of the cheese mixture over the zucchini. Cover this with a layer of tomato slices. Spread another third of the cheese mixture over the tomatoes. Place a layer of red pepper over the cheese. Spread the last third of the cheese over the peppers. Finally, place a layer of the eggplant slices on top of the cheese.
7. Fold the loose edges of plastic wrap over the contents of the terrine. Refrigerate the terrine for at least 24 hours.
8. Unmold the terrine by lifting carefully on the loose edges of the plastic wrap. Unwrap the pressé and rewrap in new plastic wrap. Replace in the refrigerator until serving time.
9. To serve, carefully slice the pressé into thick slices. Arrange the slices on serving plates.
Note: Serve with a light salad and baguette slices.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.
Ref: Cuisine et Vins de France, June‑August, 2002, page 46.
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©2005, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
salade d’automne à la mâche
70 g (212 oz)
mâche
1
ripe pear, peeled, cored, cut into small pieces
100 g (312 oz)
bleu d’Auvergne, cut into 1‑cm (38‑in) cubes
25 g (1 oz)
roasted, skinless hazelnuts
4
chips de lard
vinaigrette:
12 t
Dijon‑style mustard
12 T
white‑wine vinegar
112 T
olive oil
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Prepare the vinaigrette.
2. Combine the mâche, pear pieces, cheese, and nuts in a bowl. Gently mix in the vinaigrette.
3. Divide the salad between individual serving plates and serve with a couple of chips de lard on each serving.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Cuisine et Vins de France, November 2003, page 84.
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©2005, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
salade de courgettes au chèvre
2 small, firm
zucchinis, finely grated
1 crottin
chèvre, coarsely grated
sauce:
2 t
orange juice
1 t
lemon juice
2 t
extra‑virgin olive oil
1 t
hazelnut oil
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Place the grated zucchini in a towel and squeeze out as much moisture as possible. Place the zucchini in a mixing bowl.
2. Whisk the sauce ingredients together until emulsified. Combine with the zucchini. Mix in the chèvre. Divide the mixture between serving plates.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Cuisine et Vins de France, June‑July 2004, page 81.
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©2005, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
soufflés au chèvre frais
soft unsalted butter
15 g (1 T)
unsalted butter
10 g (1+ T)
all‑purpose flour
100 ml (scant 12 c)
whole milk
60 g (2 T)
fresh goat cheese, crumbled
1 extra‑large
egg, separated
pin
ground cumin
fine salt and freshly ground white pepper
1. Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F). Brush the interiors of 175‑g (6‑oz) ramekins with the soft butter. Set aside.
2. In a small saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk until smooth. Cook for a minute without browning.
3. Whisk in the milk and let cook over low heat until thick, about 5 minutes.
4. Off the heat, whisk in the goat cheese. Whisk in the egg yolk. Whisk in the cumin. Season with salt and pepper.
5. Beat the egg white until stiff. Fold the cheese mixture into the beaten egg white. Divide the batter between the molds. Each should be about three‑fourths full.
6. Place the molds on a baking sheet and bake until the souffles have risen and the tops have browned. About 20 minutes. (Resist opening the oven door.)
7. Serve immediately.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, November 2004, page 13.
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©2005, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
terrine de chèvre frais aux betteraves
250 g (12+ lb)
fresh goat cheese, at room temperature
walnut oil
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 medium or 2 large
cooked, peeled red beets, cut into 5‑mm (14‑in) thick slices
1. Carefully line a 275‑g (10‑oz) terrine with plastic wrap. Drape the excess plastic over the sides of the terrine.
2. Press one‑third of the goat cheese into the bottom of the terrine and level the surface. Drizzle a few drops of walnut oil over the surface. Season lightly with salt and pepper.
3. Add a single layer of beet slices to the terrine. Fill any gaps with small chunks of the beet. Drizzle a few drops of walnut oil over the surface. Season lightly with salt and pepper.
4. Add a second third of the goat cheese to the terrine. Press into place and level the surface. Drizzle a few drops of walnut oil over the surface. Season lightly with salt and pepper.
5. Add another layer of beet slices to the terrine. Fill any gaps with small chunks of the beet. Drizzle a few drops of walnut oil over the surface. Season lightly with salt and pepper.
6. Add the remaining goat cheese to the terrine. Press into place and level the surface.
7. Fold the loose ends of plastic over the top of the filling. Refrigerate the terrine until quite firm.
8. To serve, carefully remove the terrine from the mold. Using a very sharp knife, heated in hot water and dried, slice off the ends of the terrine just enough to square off the ends. Reheat and wipe the knife between cuts. Cuts the remaining terrine into 4 thick slices.
9. Place the slices on chilled serving plates to serve.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Cuisiner!, June 1997, page 44.
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©2005, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
terrine de légumes au fromage blanc et aux herbes
1 large
carrot, cut into 3‑mm (18‑in) x 8‑mm (532‑in) strips
1 medium
zucchini, cut into 3‑mm (18‑in) x 8‑mm (532‑in) strips
1 or 2 fat stalks
asparagus, quartered lengthwise
1, 10‑cm (4‑in) round,
portobello mushroom, gills removed, cut into 3‑mm (18‑in) thick slices
2 leaves
gelatin
180 g (6+ oz)
fromage blanc
90 ml (6 T)
heavy cream
1 T
minced chives
1 T
minced parsley
pinch
piment d’Espelette
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Blanch each of the vegetables until tender. Drain on absorbent paper. Reserve 60 ml (14 c) of the cooking water, warm, in a small saucepan.
2. Soften the gelatin in a glass of water.
3. Whisk the fromage blanc until smooth. Whisk in the cream. Drain the softened gelatin and dissolve in the reserved cooking water. Whisk the gelatin‑water mixture into the cheese mixture. Add the herbs and spices. Mix well.
4. Ladle enough of the cheese mixture into a 450‑g (1‑lb) terrine to just cover the bottom. Arrange some of the cooked vegetables in the terrine. Lay the pieces parallel to the length of the terrine and with a little space between each one. Ladle some more cheese mixture over the vegetables to just cover them. Repeat with more vegetable and cheese until the terrine is full. No vegetables should be visible through the cheese at the top of the terrine.
5. Chill in the refrigerator until firm.
6. To serve, unmold the terrine and cut into thick slices with a warm knife.
Yield: 6 servings.
Ref: Adapted from a recipe found in a package of Malilé gelatin, 2002.
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©2005, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
verres de Roquefort au céleri et aux noix
200 g (scant 12 lb)
Roquefort, or other blue‑style cheese, at room temperature
200 ml (1312 T)
heavy cream
freshly ground black pepper
10
walnut halves
6 small branches
celery, preferably 2 with leaves attached
1. Place the cheese and cream in the bowl of a food processor. Process until smooth. Season with pepper.
2. Place a little of the cheese mixture in the bottom of individual, stemmed glasses. Arrange 4 walnut halves around the walls of each glass. Fill the glasses with the remaining cheese mixture. Set aside in the refrigerator until stiff.
3. Just before serving, press 3 branches of celery into the cheese mixture. Place a walnut half on top of the mixture.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, April‑May (supplement) 2004, page 13.
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©2005, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.