Les Poissons

Anybody with a moderately sized French cookbook collection can easily have hundreds, if not thousands, of fish recipes at hand. Unfortunately, if the cook wants to explicitly follow the instructions of a particular recipe, chances are that the type of fish specified will not be locally available—even in France. If the fish called for is not available, the cook either has to select a different recipe or substitute another species. The 24 recipes included with this collection all called for a species of fish not readily available to me. Consequently, all the recipes have been prepared with a substitute—tilapia, a lightly-flavored, farmed fish readily available where I live. For those wishing to use the species originally called for, here’s a list of the fish names with their English translations.

bar — bass

brochet — pike

cabillaud — cod

dorade, daurade — sea bream

haddock — smoked haddock

lieu noir — coalfish, black cod

limande — common dab, lemon sole

maquereau — mackerel

mulet — mullet

perche — perch

rascasse — scorpion fish

rouget barbet — goatfish, red mullet

saint-pierre — John Dory

sole — sole (various species)

turbot — turbot, brill

CLOSE

blanquette de mulet aux aromates

1, about 700 g (11⁄2 lb)

whole mulet (or tilapia), scaled, cleaned, head, fins, and tail removed, cut into 4‑cm (11⁄2‑in) thick sections

1 T

dehydrated fish stock dissolved in 500 ml (2 c) water

1 medium

onion, shredded

1 medium bulb

fennel, shredded

1 small

carrot, shredded

1 whole

clove

1 small

bouquet garni

fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 large

egg yolk, beaten

100 ml (scant 1⁄2 c)

heavy cream

1 t

lemon juice

1 T

minced flat‑leaf parsley

1. Preheat oven to 75°C (170°F).

2. Place the fish in a saucepan along with the stock and bring to a boil. Add the onion, fennel, carrot, clove, and bouquet garni. Season with salt and pepper. Simmer for 12 minutes.

3. Remove the fish and vegetables from the saucepan and set aside in the warm oven. Discard the clove and bouquet garni. Strain the stock.

4. Return the stock to the saucepan and reduce by three‑fourths over high heat. Combine the egg yolk with the cream and, off the heat, whisk the mixture into the stock. Return the saucepan to the heat and, while whisking continuously, reduce until slightly thickened. Add the lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper.

5. Arrange the fish and vegetables on individual, heated serving plates. Spoon the sauce over the fish. Sprinkle with minced parsley.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, January 1999, page 37.

CLOSE

cabillaud à la noix de coco et au concombre

500 ml (2 c)

court‑bouillon

2, about 150 g (1⁄3 lb) each

cabillaud (or tilapia) fillets

1⁄2 T

olive oil

1 medium

shallot, peeled, very thinly sliced

150 ml (2⁄3 c)

coconut milk

1 small

cucumber, quartered lengthwise, seeds removed, cut into 1‑cm (3⁄8‑in) pieces

fine salt and freshly ground white pepper

1⁄2 t

cornstarch dissolved in 1 t water [optional]

1 T

shredded coconut, toasted

2 sprigs

cilantro

1. Bring the court‑bouillon to a simmer in a frying pan large enough to hold the fish in a single layer. Poach the fish, covered, for a few minutes until barely cooked. Drain well. Set aside and keep warm.

2. In the meantime, heat the oil in a saucepan over medium‑low heat. Sweat the shallots for a couple of minutes to soften them. Add 100 ml (1⁄2 c) of the court‑bouillon, increase the heat to high, and reduce the liquid substantially. Add the coconut milk and cucumbers. Season with a little salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 4 to 5 minutes.

3. If the sauce seems too thin, bring it to a boil and thicken with the cornstarch mixture.

4. Divide the fish between heated serving plates. Spoon the sauce over the fish. Sprinkle the fish with the toasted coconut. Decorate each plate with a couple cilantro leaves.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Guide Cuisine, August 2001, page 33.

CLOSE

carpaccio de haddock au citron vert

200 g (1⁄2 lb)

haddock (or smoked tilapia), soaked for 6 hours in cold water, dried well

150 g (1⁄3 lb)

raw sauerkraut

1 T

olive oil

1 T

minced chives

juice from 1⁄2

lime

fine salt

zest from 1⁄2

lime, cut into fine filaments

olive oil

coarsely ground mixed pepper [optional]

1. Slice the fish into paper‑thin slices and arrange in a circular pattern on chilled serving plates.

2. Rinse the sauerkraut under cold, running water. Squeeze out all the water and place the sauerkraut in a bowl. Separate the sauerkraut with a fork. Add the olive oil, chives, and lime juice. Mix well. If the sauerkraut is not salty, add a little salt. Mound the sauerkraut in the center of the serving plates, inside the circle of fish slices.

3. Strew the lime zest over the sauerkraut and drizzle a little oil over the fish. Sprinkle the fish with ground pepper, if desired.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, March 2001, page 17.

CLOSE

court-bouillon de dorade au gingembre

400 ml (12⁄3 c)

fish stock

part of 1 small

leek, long 1‑mm (1⁄32‑in) wide shreds

part of 1 small

carrot, long 1‑mm (1⁄32‑in) wide shreds

zest from 1⁄3

orange, long 1‑mm (1⁄32‑in) wide shreds

1 pinch

powdered ginger

1 pinch

powdered saffron

finely ground black pepper

1 pinch

granulated sugar

150 g

dorade (or tilapia) fillet, cut into very thin slices

1. Preheat the serving bowls.

2. Place the stock, leek, carrot, orange zest, ginger, saffron, black pepper, and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a full boil. Boil for 1 minute.

3. Divide the stock and vegetables between the heated soup bowls. Rapidly add the fish to the soup, one piece at a time.

4. Serve immediately.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisiner!, April 2000, page 38.

CLOSE

daurade au four et son curry de légumes doux

400 g (1 lb)

fresh pumpkin

3 T

room‑temperature unsalted butter

1⁄2 medium

yellow onion, finely diced

1 T

curry powder

1

lime, thinly sliced

2‑cm (3⁄4‑in) long piece

fresh ginger, peeled, thinly sliced

2, about 300 g (3⁄4 lb) each

daurade (or tilapia) fillets, with skin

fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

150 g (1⁄3 lb)

fresh spinach, stems removed, cut into 2‑cm (3⁄4‑in) wide strips

a few sprigs

fresh chives, 3‑cm (11⁄4‑in) long pieces

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C (355°F).

2. Remove the seeds from the pumpkin and discard. Skin the pumpkin. Dice the pumpkin into approximately 5‑mm (1⁄4‑in) pieces.

3. Heat 1 tablespoon butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and sweat until soft. Add the curry powder and mix well. Add the pumpkin and mix. Sprinkle with a couple tablespoons of water. Lower heat, cover saucepan, and cook the pumpkin until soft, about 15 minutes. Stir occasionally. If the mixture appears too dry, add a little more water. Using a wooden spatula, mix the cooked pumpkin to crush it a bit.

4. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Arrange the lime and ginger slices on the baking sheet so they will fill the area below the fish fillets. Place the fish fillets, skin side down, on the condiments. Spread 1 T butter over the fillets and season lightly with salt. Bake the fish until barely cooked, about 5 minutes.

5. In the meantime, melt 1 tablespoon butter in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the spinach, season with salt and pepper, and fry until just wilted. Drain any accumulated liquid and add the spinach to the pumpkin. Mix well. Taste for salt. Set aside and keep warm.

6. Divide the pumpkin mixture between heated serving plates. Carefully arrange the fillets, skin side up, on the pumpkin. Place a couple of the lime slices on the fillets and sprinkle the chives over the top.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, January 2001, page 9.

CLOSE

dos de cabillaud épicé au beurre salé d’Isigny

1 T

unsalted butter

1 small

leek, cleaned, white part only, 3‑mm (1⁄8‑in) thick diagonal slices

1⁄2 medium

red‑skin apple, cored, halved, 1‑mm (1⁄32‑in) thick crosswise slices

fine salt

2 (about 180 g each)

cabillaud (or tilapia) fillets

garam masala

1 T

grapeseed oil

3 T

chilled, salted butter

1⁄4 t

piment d’Espelette

6 sprigs

chives, 1‑cm (3⁄8‑in) pieces

1. Melt the butter in a frying pan over medium heat. Add leek and apple. Season lightly with salt. Fry the leek and apple until the leek is soft and starts to color slightly. Set aside and keep warm.

2. In the meantime, rub the fillets with some garam masala. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Fry the fillets gently so the coating darkens and the fish is barely cooked. Set aside and keep warm.

3. Also in the meantime, place a tablespoon or two of water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Whisk in the chilled butter. Season with the piment d’Espelette. Foam the sauce with a stick blender.

4. Divide the leek and apple mixture between heated serving plates. Arrange the fish fillets on top. Spoon the sauce over the fish. Sprinkle the chives over the whole dish. Serve immediately.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, August 2002, page 38.

CLOSE

escabèche de rougets légumes grillés

all‑purpose flour

fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

4

rouget (or 2 split tilapia) fillets

2 T

grapeseed oil

40 ml (scant 3 T)

olive oil

2 cloves

garlic, peeled, halved, very finely sliced

1⁄4 t

finely ground dried red pepper flakes

1⁄4 t

ground cumin

35 ml (21⁄3 T)

white wine vinegar

2 sprigs

fresh mint

1

zucchini, cut diagonally into 4 long 5‑mm (1⁄4‑in) thick slices

1 small

eggplant, cut into 4 slices sized about the same as the zucchini

1

red bell pepper, cut into 4 slices sized about the same as the zucchini

1

yellow bell pepper, cut into 4 slices sized about the same as the zucchini

fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Season the flour with salt and pepper. Dredge the fish fillets through the flour and shake off any excess. Heat the grapeseed oil in a frying pan over high heat. Fry the fillets until the outside is crisp and lightly browned. Drain on a rack.

2. Heat the olive oil in a small frying pan over medium heat. Add the garlic, ground red pepper, and cumin to the oil. Cook for about a minute. Add the vinegar and boil a minute or two. Add the mint sprigs and cook a minute more.

3. Wipe the fish fillets gently with a piece of absorbent paper. Place the fillets on a plate in a single layer and spread the garlic‑oil mixture over the fish. Cover the plate with plastic wrap and set aside in a refrigerator for at least 6 hours.

4. Heat a grill pan over high heat. Lightly brush the surface with oil if not non‑stick. Grill the sliced vegetables until tender and well marked. Set the vegetables aside in the refrigerator with the fish.

5. Remove the fish and vegetables from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before serving. To serve, divide the fish and vegetables between individual serving plates and arrange in an attractive manner. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisine et Vins de France, June‑August 2002, page 50.

CLOSE

filets de dorade gratinés aux petit lardons

soft unsalted butter

60 g (2 oz)

small common mushrooms, trimmed, quartered

40 g (11⁄3 oz)

smoked bacon, 3‑mm (1⁄8‑in) square strips

1 T

all‑purpose flour

fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

2

dorade (or tilapia) fillets

1 large

egg, beaten

1 T

breadcrumbs or ground almonds

2 T

chilled unsalted butter, diced

1 t

finely minced parsley

1. Preheat the oven to 210°C (410°F). Butter individual baking dishes and set aside.

2. Cook the mushrooms and bacon in a small frying pan over medium heat until the mushrooms start to shrink. Set aside.

3. Season the flour with the salt and pepper. Dry each fillet and lightly coat with flour. Shake off any excess. Dip the fillets into the beaten egg and allow the excess to drain. Finally, evenly sprinkle the fillets with the breadcrumbs. Shake off any excess. Arrange the fillets on the individual plates. Sprinkle the cooked mushrooms and bacon over the filets. Dot the surface of the fillets with the chilled butter.

4. Place the fillets in the oven. Reduce the oven temperature to 180°C (355°F). Bake the fish until the butter is melted, the breadcrumbs are lightly browned, and the fish is cooked, about 15 to 25 minutes.

5. Sprinkle the dishes with minced parsley before serving.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, May 2003, page 16.

CLOSE

filets de limande et courgettes au curry

2 T

oil

1 medium

onion, peeled, sliced

1⁄2 medium

red bell pepper, seeded, sliced

1 medium

zucchini, cut in half lengthwise, 3‑mm (1⁄8‑in) diagonal slices

fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 t

curry powder

300 g (3⁄4 lb)

limande (or tilapia) fillets

1 t

finely minced chives

1. Heat 1 T oil in a wide frying pan over medium heat. Cook the onion and pepper until they start to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the zucchini slices. Season with salt, pepper, and curry powder. Mix well. Continue to cook, stirring often, until the zucchini is tender. Lower heat if necessary to prevent the mixture from browning too much.

2. While the zucchini mixture is cooking, heat the remaining oil in another frying pan over medium‑high heat. Season the fillets with salt and pepper and cook, browning both sides.

3. To serve, divide the vegetables between heated serving plates. Arrange the fillets over the vegetables. Sprinkle the arrangements with chives.

Note: In the original recipe, leeks, cut similar to the zucchini, were used instead of the red pepper.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Guide Cuisine, October 1999, page 32.

CLOSE

filets de perche, cœur de chou aux petits lardons

1 medium head

green cabbage, outer leaves discarded, quartered through the core

4, about 600 g (11⁄3 lb)

perche (or tilapia) fillets

grapeseed oil

fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

olive oil

200 g (1⁄2 lb)

smoked bacon, cut into 3‑mm (1⁄8‑in) strips

2 small

tomatoes, peeled, cored, seeded, diced

1. Bring a saucepan of salted water, large enough to hold the cabbage, to a boil. Add the cabbage to the water, lower heat to simmer, and cook for 5 minutes. Chill the cabbage in an ice bath. Drain well. Cut crosswise into 3‑mm (1⁄8‑in) wide shreds. Set aside.

2. Heat a grill pan until it is very hot, or prepare a barbecue grill. Lightly brush both sides of the fillets with grapeseed oil and season them with salt and pepper. Grill the fillets until barely cooked. Set aside and keep warm.

3. In the meantime heat a couple of tablespoons of olive oil in a wide frying pan over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook for awhile. Do not let the bacon become crisp. Add the shredded cabbage, season with salt and pepper, and mix well. Cover the pan and cook the combination for a few minutes. Stir periodically to keep the cabbage from burning.

4. When the cabbage is heated through, lightly salt the diced tomato and add it to the cabbage mixture. Combine well and remove the pan from the heat.

5. Mound the cabbage on individual serving plates and arrange the fish fillets on top of the cabbage.

Yield: 4 servings.

Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, June 2004, page 68.

CLOSE

filets de rouget barbet à la vapeur, sauce vierge

1⁄2 T

balsamic vinegar

1⁄2 T

sherry vinegar

fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

11⁄2 T

extra virgin olive oil

1 small

salad tomato, cored, peeled, seeded, finely diced

1⁄2 small

red onion, peeled, finely diced

1 T

capers, rinsed and drained

1 T

flat‑leaf parsley, chopped

4

rouget (or 2 tilapia) fillets

60 g (2 oz)

mâche, well cleaned

1. Combine the vinegars, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Whisk in the oil. Fold in the tomato, onion, capers, and parsley. Set aside.

2. Salt the fish fillets and steam until barely cooked, about 4 minutes.

3. While the fish is cooking, drain some of the liquid from the sauce into the mâche and toss to mix. Divide the mâche between individual serving plates.

4. When the fish is done, drain the fillets and arrange them on top of the mâche. Spoon the sauce over the fish.

Note: In the original recipe, blanched snow peas were used instead of the mâche.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: ELLE à table, March‑April 2002, page 87.

CLOSE

filets de Saint-Pierre au Noilly

125 g (1⁄4 lb) small

common mushrooms, trimmed and quartered

1 t

lemon juice

75 ml (5 T)

heavy cream

1 large

shallot, peeled and finely sliced

75 ml (5 T)

dry white vermouth (Noilly‑Prat)

fine salt

20 g

unsalted butter

2, about 150 g (1⁄3 lb) each

Saint‑Pierre (or tilapia) fillets

freshly ground black pepper

20 g

chilled butter, diced

1. Place the mushrooms, lemon juice, and cream in a saucepan over high heat and bring to a boil. Boil for 5 minutes. Strain the mushrooms from the liquid. Set the liquid aside. Set the mushrooms aside and keep warm.

2. Place the shallot and vermouth in a clean saucepan over high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce by three‑fourths. Add the liquid from cooking the mushrooms and reduce by half. Season with salt. Set aside.

3. In the meantime, melt 20 g (2⁄3 oz) of butter in a frying pan over medium heat. Season the fish with salt and pepper and cook in the butter.

4. When the fish is cooked, reheat the sauce and, off the heat, stir in the chilled butter. Arrange the cooked fish on individual, heated serving plates and spoon the sauce over the fish. Scatter the cooked mushrooms over the top of the fish.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Guide Cuisine, May 1998, page 41.

CLOSE

filets de sole aux morilles

1 T

unsalted butter

1 small

shallot, thinly sliced

100 g (31⁄2 oz)

fresh morel mushrooms, or 25 g (1 oz) dried morel mushrooms hydrated, ft removed, cut into 1‑cm (3⁄8‑oz) pieces

2, about 300 g (3⁄4 lb)

sole (or tilapia) fillets

50 ml (scant 1⁄4 c)

fumet de poisson (fish stock)

50 ml (scant 1⁄4 c)

dry white wine

100 ml (scant 1⁄2 c)

heavy cream

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 t

minced chives

1. Melt the butter in a small frying pan over medium heat. Add the shallot and sweat briefly. Add the mushrooms and fry until cooked. Set aside.

2. Place the fish in a single layer in a frying pan along with the fish stock and white wine. Cover and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer until fish is cooked, about 2 to 3 minutes. Turn fish part way through the cooking. When cooked, transfer the fish to a plate and set aside. Keep warm.

3. Add the mushrooms to the stock, increase heat to high, and reduce by about three‑fourths. Add the cream and reduce until thickened. Season with salt and pepper.

4. Transfer the cooked fish to heated serving plates. Spoon the sauce and mushrooms over the fish. Sprinkle the fish with chives.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, April 1999, page 52.

CLOSE

filets de turbot, crème de citron au cerfeuil

300 g (3⁄4 lb)

turbot (tilapia) fillets

200 g (1⁄2 lb)

French beans, stems trimmed

coarse salt

fine salt and freshly ground white pepper

2 T

unsalted butter

15 g (1⁄2 oz)

finely diced shallots

juice from 1⁄2

lemon

150 ml (2⁄3 c)

heavy cream

about 2 T

fish eggs, such as salmon or capelin

2 T

coarsely minced chervil

4 small sprigs

chervil

1. Place the fillets on a plate and steam for 5 to 10 minutes until cooked through. Set aside and keep warm.

2. In the meantime cook the beans in salted, boiling water until just tender. Drain well, season with salt and pepper, and mix with 1 T butter. Set aside and keep warm.

3. Also in the meantime, melt 1 T butter in a frying pan over medium‑low heat. Sweat the shallots for a few minutes. Add the lemon juice and cream. Bring to a slight boil and reduce until thickened. Season with salt and pepper. Mix in two‑thirds of the fish eggs and the minced chervil.

4. Arrange the beans in the center of individual, heated serving plates. Spoon the sauce around the outside of the beans. Drain the fillets and arrange on top of the beans. Mound a teaspoon of fish eggs on the fillets. Arrange two small sprigs of chervil around each mound of eggs. Serve immediately.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisiner!, July 1998, page 32.

CLOSE

lieu noir frit à la provençale

grapeseed, or other neutral, oil

1 medium

onion, peeled, halved, shredded

1 large clove

garlic, peeled, germ removed, very thinly sliced

1 branch (about 15 cm [3 in] long)

celery, strings removed, very thinly sliced

500 g (1+ lb)

plum tomatoes, peeled, cored, seeded, and cut into short strips

coarse salt

1 T

all‑purpose flour

1 T

finely grated Parmesan cheese

fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

2, about 150 g (1⁄3 lb) each

lieu noir (or tilapia) fillets

6 leaves

fresh basil, chiffonade

1. Heat a tablespoon of oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and celery. Sweat until the onions start to soften. Add the tomatoes. Season with coarse salt. Simmer until the tomatoes start to break down, about 20 minutes.

2. In the meantime, combine the flour and cheese. Season the mixture with fine salt and black pepper. Dry the fish fillets with absorbent paper. Lightly coat each fillet with the mixture and set aside.

3. Heat a couple of tablespoons of oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Fry the fillets until golden brown, about 3 or 4 minutes per side. Place the filets on heated serving plates.

4. Mix the basil into the sauce and spoon the sauce around the fish.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Guide Cuisine, October 2000, page 14.

CLOSE

œufs farcis au haddock

100 g (31⁄2 oz)

haddock (or smoked tilapia) fillet

125 ml (1⁄2 c)

whole milk

3 large

eggs, boiled 9 minutes, peeled

11⁄2 T

heavy cream

1 pinch

powdered saffron

1 T

minced chives

fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 pinch

saffron pistils

18 leaves

baby spinach

1. Poach the fish fillets in the milk for 5 minutes. Rinse the fillets with water and dry with absorbent paper. Cut (shred) the fish into 5‑mm (1⁄4‑in) pieces.

2. Cut each egg in half lengthwise. Remove the yolks and, using a fork, crush in a bowl with the cream. Set the white aside. Add the fish, powdered saffron, chives, salt, and pepper. Blend until smooth.

3. Divide the yolk mixture into 6 portions and roll each into a ball about the size of the original yolks. Place the new “yolks” on the whites. Sprinkle the saffron pistils over the eggs.

4. Arrange spinach leaves on the serving plates and place 3 egg halves on each arrangement.

Note: For use as an amuse‑bouche, cut the hard‑cooked eggs into 4 wedges lengthwise. Place each wedge of egg white on a spinach leaf. Roll the yolk mixture into ellipsoidal shapes and place on the whites.

Yield: 2 servings as an entrée, or 12 pieces as an amuse‑bouche.

Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, February 1998, page 27.

CLOSE

papillote de bar au fenouil

1 T

olive oil

400 g (1 lb)

fennel, trimmed, cored, thinly sliced

1 clove

garlic, peeled, finely minced

1 long sprig

fresh rosemary, cut into 4 pieces

fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

2, about 300 g (3⁄4‑lb) each

skinless bar (or tilapia) fillets

zest from 1⁄2

lemon

2 wedges

lemon

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C (355°F).

2. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the fennel, garlic, and 2 pieces of rosemary. Season with salt and pepper. Cook the fennel, stirring often, until it is soft, about 10 to 15 minutes. Discard the rosemary.

3. Divide the fennel between two pieces of parchment paper. Arrange the fennel into mounds that are about the same size as the fish fillets. Place a fish fillet on each mound. Season the fillets with salt and pepper. Distribute the lemon zest over the fillets and place a piece of rosemary on each. Tightly fold the paper over the fillets. Place the packages on a baking sheet. Bake for about 10 minutes.

4. Place each fish package on a heated serving plate. Open the paper with some scissors. Serve each with a lemon wedge on the side.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisiner!, March 1998, page 36.

CLOSE

quiche d’herbes au haddock

150 g (1⁄3 lb)

haddock (or smoked tilapia) fillets

250 ml (1 c)

whole milk

soft unsalted butter

1 large

egg

1 large

egg yolk

150 ml (2⁄3 c)

heavy cream

freshly ground black pepper

1 T

minced chives

1 T

minced flat‑leaf parsley

1 T

minced chervil

1. Soak the smoked fish fillets in the milk for 12 or more hours.

2. Preheat oven to 205°C (400°F). Brush two 12‑cm (43⁄4‑in) diameter quiche dishes with butter and set aside.

3. Place the egg and yolk in a bowl and whisk. Whisk in the cream. Season with pepper and add the herbs. Whisk until thoroughly blended.

4. Remove the fish from the milk, rinse with water, and dry with absorbent paper. Cut the fillets into small strips. Divide the fish between the prepared quiche dishes. Divide the custard between the dishes.

5. Bake for 25 minutes until the custard is set and the tops begin to brown.

6. Set aside for 10 minutes to firm up before serving.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, May 2000, page 5.

CLOSE

rillettes de maquereau fumé

150 g (1⁄3 lb)

maquereau fumé (or smoked tilapia) fillets

75 g

soft unsalted butter

2 small

shallots, peeled, finely diced

juice from 1⁄2

lime

1 T

minced chives

freshly ground white pepper

1. Chop or coarsely grind the fish and mix with the remaining ingredients.

2. Refrigerate for 3 hours before serving.

Note: Serve with grilled baguette slices.

Yield: 4 servings.

Ref: ELLE à table, July‑August 1999, page 142.

CLOSE

Saint-Pierre à la coriandre, émulsion d’agrumes et betteraves au cumin

1 t

unsalted butter

200 g (1⁄2 lb)

cooked and peeled red beets, 5‑mm (1⁄4‑in) thick by 4‑cm (11⁄2‑in) diam slices

ground cumin

30 g (1 oz)

whole coriander seeds

12 sprigs

fresh coriander

coarse salt

juice from 1

orange

juice from 1⁄2

lemon

1 T

grapeseed oil

2, about 120 g (1⁄4 lb) each

Saint‑Pierre (or tilapia) fillets

1. Preheat the oven to 75°C (170°F). Heat the serving plates.

2. Heat the butter in a large nonstick frying pan over medium heat. Sprinkle one side of the beet slices with cumin. Place the slices, seasoned side down in the frying pan and cook until the slices are heated mostly through, about 2 minutes. Season the top of the beet slices with cumin and turn over to continue heating all the way through.

3. Remove the slices and arrange in a circle with overlapping edges on the heated plates. Set aside and keep warm.

4. Place the coriander seeds and sprigs and coarse salt in a large, shallow saucepan of water. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer and allow the water to infuse for a few minutes.

5. Place the orange and lemon juices in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer. Reduce the juices to a syrup. Whisk in the grapeseed oil. Set aside and keep warm.

6. Poach the fish fillets until cooked, about 3 or 4 minutes. Drain well. Place the fillets on top of the beet slices and spoon the sauce over the fillets. Serve immediately.

Note: To cook the beets, salt lightly, wrap in aluminum foil, and bake until tender, about an hour; set aside to cool before peeling.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisiner!, October 1999, page 41.

CLOSE

saucisses de brochet

400 g

brochet (or tilapia) fillets, ground through a fine plate

60 ml (1⁄4 c)

heavy cream

60 ml (1⁄4 c)

dry white wine

30 g (1 oz)

fresh white bread crumbs, without crust

1 T

finely minced flat‑leaf parsley

1⁄8 t

ground cloves

fine salt and freshly ground white pepper

1 m (3 ft)

medium hog casing

1. Thoroughly combine all the ingredients except the casing.

2. Prepare the casing for stuffing.

3. Using a pastry tube, or other sausage stuffing means, stuff the forcemeat into the casing. Twist it into 6 links of equal length.

4. Place the sausages in a saucepan filled with cold water. Slowly bring the water to 70°C (160°F). Poach the sausages for 10 minutes. Drain and cool the sausage in an ice‑water bath.

Yield: about 500 g (1+ lb) of sausage, 2 or 3 servings.

Ref: Cuisiner!, October 1999, page 79.

CLOSE

soles à la meunière

400 g (1 lb)

sole (or tilapia) fillets

all‑purpose flour, seasoned with fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 T

clarified, unsalted butter

juice from 1⁄2

lemon

4 T

chilled butter, diced

1. Rinse the fillets and dry with absorbent paper. Lightly dust the fillets with seasoned flour.

2. Heat the clarified butter in a large frying pan over medium‑high heat. Add the fish to the frying pan and season with salt and pepper. Fry the fillets until they are lightly browned on both sides. Set aside to drain on absorbent paper. Keep warm.

3. Discard any fat remaining in the frying pan. Lower the heat under the pan and add the lemon juice. When the juice comes to a boil, remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the chilled butter. Season the sauce with salt and pepper.

4. Place the fish fillets on heated servings plates and spoon the sauce over the fish.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Larousse gastronomique, 1997, page 986.

CLOSE

soupe de poisson

1 T

olive oil

1, about 350 g (3⁄4 lb)

whole fish (tilapia works well), head removed, body cut into 5‑cm pieces, washed, drained

1 medium

plum tomato, cored, quartered

1 small

yellow onion, peeled, sliced

1 large clove

garlic, crushed

coarse, gray salt and freshly ground black pepper

325 ml (11⁄3 c)

water

125 ml (1⁄2 c)

dry white wine

1 small

fresh bay leaf

1 sprig

fresh thyme

1 pinch

saffron

fine salt

1. Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the fish, tomato, onion, and garlic. Season with coarse salt and pepper and cook for a few minutes.

2. Add the water, wine, bay leaf, thyme, and saffron. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 20 minutes.

3. Strain the soup into a clean saucepan. Gently press on the solids in the strainer to release more soup. Discard the solids.

4. Before serving, reheat the soup and salt to taste.

Yield: 2 servings, or 6 as an amuse‑bouche.

Ref: Mapie de Toulouse‑Lautrec, La Cuisine de Mapie, 2004, page 100.

CLOSE

tartare de rascasse et haricots verts au sésame

100 g (1⁄4 lb)

French beans

1 T

black sesame seeds

1 T

saké or dry white wine

1 T

roasted sesame seed oil

200 g (1⁄2 lb)

skinless rascasse (or tilapia) fillets, very finely diced

1

spring onion, white portion with a little of the green, finely minced

zest from 1⁄2

lime, finely minced

1⁄2 T

lime juice

1⁄2 T

light Japanese soy sauce

3⁄4 t

grated fresh ginger

leaves from 6 sprigs

fresh coriander, finely minced

freshly ground black pepper

fleur de sel

1. Blanch the beans in salted, boiling water until tender, about 5 minutes. Drain, shock in ice water, drain again, and set aside on absorbent paper.

2. Roast the sesame seeds in a dry frying pan over high heat until fragrant. Transfer to a mortar and pound into a powder. Add the saké and sesame oil and mix well. Set aside.

3. Combine the fish with the onion, lime zest, lime juice, soy sauce, ginger, coriander, and black pepper.

4. Divide the fish mixture between chilled serving plates. Arrange the beans next to the fish and spoon the sesame seed sauce over the beans. Sprinkle the beans lightly with fleur de sel. Serve immediately.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Elle à table, July‑August 1999, page 81.

CLOSE