Sometimes I wished I lived in another time. I wouldn’t actually want to spend too much time in late nineteenth-century England, but it would be fun to be there long enough to buy onions from an Onion Johnnie. Starting in 1828, when there was a bumper crop, some Breton farmers from the area around Roscoff would, at the end of summer, cross the channel to Plymouth with a few tons of onions and spend the remainder of the year selling them door to door.1 They would rent space in a barn to store the onions, and before going out to sell them, each farmer would braid the onions into strings so that they would be easier to transport. The thought of buying a string of pink Roscoff onions from a farmer at my door is just so neat.

Recorded history of the onion dates back to around 3000 BCE. The cultivation of onions is thought to have begun in India around 600 BCE, and there are Greek and Roman writings about onions from a couple centuries later.2 The exact date that onions were introduced to French soil is not known, but it was probably long before the start of the Common Era.

The use of onions is quite common in even the earliest of French cookbooks, a practice that continues to today. (From my research of French recipes, it seems that shallots, another member of the lily (Liliaceae) family and Allium genus, may actually be called for more often than onions. Or maybe not; they are both used quite often.) With a total yield of 484,000 metric tons (534 tons)3 and a population in 2005 of 60,656,000 people,4 the per capita consumption of onions by the French population was just under 8 kilograms (175/8 pounds) per person,5 which is slightly higher than the world average.6 (Libya has the highest annual per capita consumption of 30.3 kilograms (66.8 pounds).)7 Other than starring in the occasional soup or tart, onions tend to show up as a bridesmaid instead of the bride in French cooking.

I’ve always thought that an onion consisted of a number of layers of oniony stuff inside a skin with a root at one end and a stem at the other. With a little research I’ve found that onions don’t have layers. A typical mature onion has two dry skins covering four swollen sheaths grown from bladed leaves. These in turn enclose three or four swollen bladeless bulb scales. In the center are five leaf initials with blades.8 Go figure.

What I find more fascinating is that although there are thousands of onion varieties, there are essentially no more wild onions in existence.9 Those thousands of varieties can be divided into two categories: fresh onions (sometimes referred to as spring or summer onions) and storage onions (sometimes referred to as fall or winter onions). Fresh onions are generally available from March to August. Fresh onions have thin, light-colored skins. Raw, they typically taste sweeter and milder than storage onions due to their higher water content. This higher water content also makes them more susceptible to bruising. Storage onions are generally available from August to April. They have thick, dark, papery skins that make them easier to peel. Storage onions typically have a more intense flavor than fresh onions due to their higher solids content. Both fresh and storage onions come in three basic colors: white, yellow, and red.10

Different onion varieties require a different day length in order to make a bulb. Long-day varieties set bulbs when they receive 15 to 16 hours of daylight. Short-day varieties set bulbs when they receive about 12 to 13 hours of daylight. Intermediate-day varieties fall in between.11 Onions grow in latitudes ranging from 5 to 60 degrees, so a wide range of day length is available.12

It turns out that the term “sweet onion” is not much more than that. There are no government regulations as to which onion can be called sweet and which cannot. And it is not uncommon for storage onions to contain more sugar than sweet onions, which are usually fresh onions. Sweet onions tend to be higher in water content, lower in solids, and lower in pyruvic acid level. The onion’s pungency is generally relative to its pyruvic acid level. Also affecting sweetness are sulfur-based peptides, thiosulfinates, and alkenyl cysteine sulfoxides. The ones you smell and taste the most are thiosulfinates.13

Genetic varieties, horticultural practices, soil type, and climate will influence the concentration of sugars and sulfuric compounds inside an onion bulb. Typically, the short-day variety available during the spring and summer will accumulate more water and produce a bulb with a lower concentration of sulfur compounds. Under the right growing conditions, these varieties will result in an onion where the sweetness in a raw onion can be perceived. In contrast, most intermediate and long-day varieties take on less water and have a higher concentration of the sulfuric compounds, which mask the sugars. But when heat is applied, as it is in cooking, the sulfur compounds dissipate and the sugar is again perceived.14

All onions, no matter which variety, need to be “cured” after harvesting. It is during curing that the onion’s papery skin forms and the stem shrinks to seal the onion bulb.15 For field curing, the onion bulbs are pulled from the soil and set in rows. Their tops partially cover the bulbs to help prevent sunburn and prevent bulb damage. The onion bulbs are left in this manner until the tops wither. Once this happens, the tops are cut off about an inch from the bulb. Field curing can take two to three weeks if the temperature is between 24 and 27 °C (75 and 80 °F) and the relative humidity is less than 60%.

Onions can also be cured in mesh bags or trays designed to provide proper ventilation. This method is safer than field curing. In addition, if ventilated with air between 29 and 32 °C (85 and 90 °F), the curing period can be reduced to 4 or 5 days.

Depending on the type of onion and the curing method employed, onions can be stored for up to 8 months. They should be stored in a well-ventilated, dry, refrigerated area. If there is too much humidity, greater than 60%, the onions are susceptible to mold and rot.16

As of 2005, the world’s largest producer of onions, producing about one-third of the total world production, was China. India, the country in second place, produced slightly more than one-third as much as China. France came in about 25th place with a total production of about 432,000 metric tons (476,000 tons). During that same period, France imported about 95,000 metric tons (105,000 tons) and exported 43,000 metric tons (47,000 tons). (I wonder how many of the exported onions were the result of the few remaining Onion Johnnies?)

The most common question I get when I teach people how to cut onions into various shapes is “How do I keep from crying when I cut onions?” Maybe people should first ask “Why do onions cause me to cry?” The answer to the second question comes from Dr. Irwin Goldman at the University of Wisconsin:

When an onion is cut, the enzyme alliinase begins to react with the substrates known as Alk(en)yl-L-Cysteine Sulfoxides (ACSO). One of these ACSOs is called 1-propenyl L cysteine sulfoxide. When it reacts with alliinase, the reaction produces 1-propenesulfenic acid, pyruvic acid, and ammonia. The 1-propensulfenic acid then reacts with an enzyme called Lachrymatory Factor Synthase, which generates propanethial sulfoxide. This compound reacts with the nerve cell membrane of the eye to form sulfuric acid, and causes tearing.17

So how do you avoid contact with propanethial sulfoxide when you cut onions? I recommend four mitigating options: chill the onion thoroughly before slicing; use a very sharp knife; slice, not chop, the onion; and work in a well-ventilated space. Some people claim that the best solution is wearing contact lenses that cover the cornea’s autonomic motor fibers that in turn activate the lachrymal (tear) glands. Others suggest wearing swimming goggles, which provide the same function without a visit to the optometrist.

How should onions be peeled and sliced? I’m not going to give instructions for that here. My video about alliums thoroughly explains the process.

The onion recipes that accompany this brief article run the gamut from recipes where onions are the principal ingredient to those where onions are just one of the major ingredients. There’s the usual assortment of soups, tarts, flans, and a few surprises, too. All of the recipes should work with whatever onions are available when you choose to try them. Enjoy.

RECIPES
HOME
1.
Blume M, “Don’t Cry for Me, Onion Johnnie,” in the International Herald Tribune, September 6, 1997.
2.
Shigyo M, Kik C, “Onion,” in Prohens J, Nuez F (eds), Handbook of Plant Breeding: Vegetables II-Fabaceae, Liliaceae, Solanaceae, and Umbelliferae. New York: Springer, 2007, 123.
3.
Derived from data tables for 2005 provided by Economic Research Service, USDA Economics, Statistics and Market Information System, Table65.xls, Table67.xls, Table69.xls. Found at U.S. Onion Statistics. Cited 23 May 2008.
4.
—, 2005 CIA World Fact Book (online version). Cited 23 May 2008.
5.
Economic Research Service.
6.
“Onion Consumption,” on the National Onion Association website, cited 19 May 2008.
7.
Ibid.
8.
Brewster JL, Onions and Other Vegetables Alliums. Wallingford, UK: CAB International, 1994, 29
9.
Shigyo, 123.
—, Onions–Layers of Flavors: A Culinary Instructor’s Guide. Greeley, CO: National Onion Association, n.d., 6.
—, Onion. Davis, CA: UC Davis, Vegetable Research and Information Center, n.d.
Shigyo, 124.
Personal communication, Kimberly Reddin, National Onion Association, 29 April 2008.
Ibid.
Ibid.
Swift C, Harvesting and Storing Onion and Garlic. Grand Junction, CO: Colorado State Cooperative Extension, 1997, 2-3.
National Onion Association, Greeley, CO.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
brochettes de bœuf marinées aux oignons doux
1 large
lemon, cut into halves
212 T
olive oil
1 clove
garlic, pureed
14 t
dried thyme, crushed into a coarse powder
18 t
ground Cayenne pepper
large pinch
fine salt
425 g (12 lb)
sirloin steak, cut into 2 to 3 cm (about 1‑in) cubes, yielding about 20 cubes
1 large
sweet red onion, peeled, cut into twenty wedges, small inner layers removed, other layers in groups of two
1. 
Combine the juice from the lemon, 112 tablespoons oil, garlic, thyme, pepper, and salt in a bowl. Add the meat and mix to combine. Set aside.
2. 
Cut each lemon half into 4 wedges. Remove and discard any seeds.
3. 
Preheat a barbecue grill or stove top grill pan.
4. 
Thread the ingredients onto 4 skewers in the following order: onion, meat, lemon, meat, onion, meat, onion, meat, lemon, meat, and onion.
5. 
Grill the kabobs until the meat is barely cooked, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Set aside for a few minutes to rest before serving.
6. 
Serve the skewers on individual serving plates.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, July 1997, page 6.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
brochettes de saumon aux oignons et cumin
400 g (14 oz) thick
skinless salmon filet, cut into cubes for skewering
1 large (7 cm [3 in])
red onion, peeled, cut into eight wedges, small inner layers removed, other layers in groups of two or three, depending on thickness
olive oil
12 T
cumin seeds
la sauce:
1
green onion, chopped
12
hot red pepper, seeded, pith removed, chopped
1 clove
garlic, peeled
1 T
fresh cilantro leaves
12 T
lime juice
1 T
Thai fish sauce
2 t
raw sugar
112 T
extra virgin olive oil
1. 
Preheat a barbecue grill or a broiler.
2. 
Thread the salmon cubes and onion wedges onto skewers, alternating the salmon and the onions on each skewer. Drizzle with some olive oil and sprinkle with the cumin seeds.
3. 
For the sauce, place all the ingredients in the bowl of a small food processor and process until smooth. Transfer to small, individual bowls.
4. 
Cook the brochettes on the grill or under the broiler on a grill pan for 2 to 3 minutes per side.
5. 
Serve the skewers on individual serving plates with the sauce on the side.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, June 2006, page 20.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
chili de poulet aux deux oignons
2 T
vegetable oil
1 large (7 cm [3 in])
red onion, peeled, cut into 5‑mm (316‑in) wide shreds
1 large (7 cm [3 in])
white onion, peeled, cut into 5‑mm (316‑in) wide shreds
12 large
red bell pepper, cut into 5‑mm (316‑in) wide strips
1
jalapeño pepper, seeded, cut into 2‑mm (332‑in) wide pieces
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper
450 g (1 lb)
boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into 5‑mm (316‑in) wide shreds
50 g (123 oz)
pine nuts
1 T
coarsely minced, fresh cilantro
le sauce:
2 T
chili powder
1 t
cornstarch
2 t
Worchestershire sauce
1 T
lemon juice
1 T
water
1. 
Combine the sauce ingredients in a bowl and set aside.
2. 
Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium‑high heat. Add the onions and peppers, season with salt and pepper, and cook. Stir frequently to keep from burning.
3. 
In the meantime, bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the chicken shreds all at once, and separate them with a spatula. Cook only until the surface color changes to gray. Immediately strain the meat from the water. Set the meat aside.
4. 
When the vegetables are cooked, add the chicken strips, pine nuts, and the sauce. Mix well and heat through. Add the cilantro, mix again, and serve.
Yield: 2 large, or 4 small, servings.
Ref: Guide Cuisine, October 2001, page 11.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
chutney aux oignons
1 kg (214 lb)
onions, peeled, halved, cut lengthwise into shreds
60 g (2 oz)
ginger, peeled, cut into thin, 3 mm by 3 cm (18 by 1‑in) strips
350 g (34 lb)
raw sugar
200 g (7 oz)
sun‑dried raisins
200 ml (78 c)
dry white wine
200 ml (78 c)
white wine vinegar
1 clove
garlic, trimmed and peeled
14 t
curry powder
2 pieces
whole cloves
1. 
Place all the ingredients into a saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring frequently. Lower heat and simmer for about an hour. Increase the heat and thicken the liquid until syrupy. Remove and discard the cloves and the garlic.
2. 
Pack the hot chutney into canning jars and seal. Set aside for 3 weeks before using.
Yield: Five 250‑ml canning jars.
Ref: Cuisiner!, Autumn Supplement 1997, page 40.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
faux-filets aux petits oignons confits
2 (about 225 g [8 oz] each)
sirloin steaks
fine salt and coarsely ground black pepper
4 T
butter
275 g (10 oz)
yellow or white pearl onions, blanched 112 minutes, trimmed on both ends, peeled, halved
1. 
Preheat oven to 220°C (430°F).
2. 
Season the steaks with salt and pepper. Set aside at room temperature.
3. 
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan over high heat. Add the onions and mix well. Add 2 tablespoons water to the saucepan, mix, cover saucepan, lower heat, and cook slowly until the onions are tender, about 10 minutes.
4. 
In the meantime, heat a frying pan over high heat. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter. When the butter melts, add the steaks. Sear one side and turn the steaks over. Place the frying pan in the oven and cook the steaks until very rare, about 5 minutes. Remove the steaks from the frying pan and place them on a heated plate to rest for 5 minutes.
5. 
Place the frying pan with the fat from cooking the steaks on a burner set to high. Add the onions and 2 tablespoons water. Scrape the cooked juices from the bottom of the frying pan and stir until they are all dissolved. Cook the onions, stirring frequently until browned.
6. 
Place the steaks on individual, heated serving plates and spoon the onions around them.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, March 1998, page 19.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
flans aux oignons
1 T + some for the molds
butter
1 large (7 cm [3 in])
red onion, peeled, shredded
2 large
eggs
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper
freshly ground nutmeg
100 ml (634 T)
heavy cream
25 g (1 oz)
comté cheese, finely grated
1. 
Preheat oven to 180°C (355°F). Butter 2 individual, nonstick tart molds.
2. 
Melt the butter in a small frying pan over medium‑high heat. Add the onions and a small pinch of salt. Cook the onions, stirring frequently, until they are tender and caramelized.
3. 
In the meantime, break the eggs into a bowl. Season with the salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Beat the eggs with a fork as for an omelet. Mix in the cream, cheese, and the cooked onions. Divide the mixture between the tart molds.
4. 
Place the molds in the oven and bake until cooked all the way through, about 30 minutes.
5. 
Remove the flans from the molds while they are still hot and serve immediately.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Guide Cuisine, October 1999, page 19.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
moules crèmées aux oignons
75 ml (13 c)
dry white wine
freshly ground white pepper
112 l (about 112 lb)
mussels, washed and beards removed
1 T
butter
250 g (12 lb)
sweet onions, peeled and shredded
100 ml (716 c)
heavy cream
leaves from 3 sprigs
flat‑leaf parsley, chiffonade
leaves from 2 sprigs
fresh thyme
fine salt
1 small
hot red chili pepper, seeded, very finely sliced
1. 
Preheat oven to 75 °C (170 °F).
2. 
Place the wine and a pinch of white pepper in a large saucepan over high heat. When boiling, add the mussels and cover. Cook the mussels just until they open. Drain the mussels, reserving the cooking juices. Set the mussels aside, in individual serving bowls, in the oven.
3. 
Strain the mussel juices through a coffee filter.
4. 
Using the same saucepan that the mussels were cooked in, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onions and cook for about 5 minutes. Add the cream, the reserved mussel juices, parsley, and thyme. Bring to a boil and reduce a little. Season with salt and add the chili pepper.
5. 
Spoon the onions and sauce over the mussels and serve immediately.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, June 2004, page 14.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
oignons doux farcis au thon
2 large, 7 cm (3 in),
red onions
1 T
olive oil
100 g (312 oz)
canned tuna, well drained
20 g (23 oz)
baguette, cut into 4‑mm (532‑in) cubes, softened in a small amount of dry white wine
5 sprigs
chives, minced
leaves from 2 sprigs
fresh oregano, minced
1 large
egg, beaten
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. 
Preheat the oven to 180°C (355°F). Oil a baking dish.
2. 
Trim the loose roots from the onions, and carefully peel them without damaging the underlying layers. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Boil the onions for 10 minutes.
3. 
Carefully cut the tops off each onion about a quarter of the way down from the stem, reserving the tops. Using a small spoon, scoop out and reserve the centers of the onions so there are only 2 layers remaining. Set the onion shells aside on a plate.
4. 
Heat the oil in a small frying pan over medium‑low heat. Dice the reserved onion scooped from the boiled onions and fry until tender.
5. 
Combine the diced, cooked onion with the tuna, bread, and herbs. Add enough egg to bind the stuffing together. Season with salt and pepper. Fill the onion shells with the stuffing. Overfill the shells a little bit. Place the stuffed onions on the baking dish and replace the tops onto each onion. Bake the stuffed onions until they are cooked through, about 20 minutes.
6. 
When the onions are cooked, transfer them to individual serving plates. Serve immediately.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, July 2005, page 26.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
oignons farcis à la piperade
2 large, 7 cm (3 in),
unblemished yellow onions
1 T
olive oil
1 medium
yellow onion, peeled, 5‑mm (316‑in) shreds
fine salt
12
red bell pepper, 5‑mm (316‑in) shreds
12
green bell pepper, 5‑mm (316‑in) shreds
2 large
Roma tomatoes, cored, peeled, seeded, 5‑mm (316‑in) shreds
piment d’Espelette, to taste
2 extra‑large
eggs
2 to 4 slices, depending on length,
very thinly sliced ham
1. 
Preheat the oven to 180°C (355°F). Oil a baking dish.
2. 
Trim the loose roots from the 2 large onions, and carefully peel them without damaging the underlying layers. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Boil the onions for 10 minutes.
3. 
In the meantime, heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the shredded onion, salt lightly, and cook until onion starts to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the peppers, salt lightly again, and continue cooking until the peppers start to soften, about another 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, a little more salt, and cook until the water released by the tomatoes is evaporated. Taste the mixture and add more salt if necessary. Add the piment d’Espelette to taste. Remove the saucepan from the heat.
4. 
Carefully cut the tops off each onion about a quarter of the way down from the stem. Using a small spoon, scoop out the centers of the onions so there is only 2 or 3 layers remaining. Set the onion shells aside on a plate.
5. 
Beat the eggs as for an omelet and mix them into the onion‑pepper‑tomato mixture. Spoon this mixture into the onion shells. Carefully, move the filled onions to the baking dish and place in the oven. Bake the stuffed onions the eggs are cooked through, about 35 minutes.
6. 
Five minutes before the onions are done, gently heat the ham slices in a large frying pan.
7. 
When the onions are cooked, transfer them to individual serving plates and wrap the ham slices around them. Serve immediately.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Cuisine et Vins de France, September‑October 2003, page 54.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
oignons fondus au brie
2 T
butter
300 g (1012 oz)
yellow onions, peeled, shredded
100 g (312 oz)
shallots, peeled, shredded
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper
100 ml (716 c)
tomato sauce
6 slices, 3‑mm (18‑in) thick
Brie
1. 
Melt the butter in a frying pan over medium‑high heat. Add the onions and shallots. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Cook until tender and caramelized. Season with salt and pepper.
2. 
Turn the heat to high and add the tomato sauce. Mix with the onions until everything is well combined and the sauce is heated through. Set aside, keep warm.
3. 
Preheat the broiler.
4. 
Divide the onion mixture between individual gratin dishes. Arrange 3 cheese slices on top of each dish. Brown under the broiler, about 3 minutes.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: loosely adapted from Raymond Oliver, La Cuisine, 1972, page 568.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
omelette aux oignons blancs
2 large, 7 cm (3 in),
white onions, peeled, quartered lengthwise through the root
white wine vinegar
3
cloves
1 T
olive oil
2 T
butter
5 large
eggs
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. 
Place the onion quarters in a small bowl and cover with vinegar. Toss the cloves into the bowl. Refrigerate for 6 hours.
2. 
Remove the onions from the vinegar, and drain well. Cut the onions crosswise into 6‑mm (14‑in) wide slices.
3. 
Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium‑high heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until they are soft and lightly colored. Set aside and keep warm.
4. 
Heat the butter in a large nonstick frying pan over medium‑high heat. While the butter is heating, season the eggs with salt and pepper and beat with a fork. When the pan is hot and the butter melted, pour the eggs into the pan. Stir the eggs until they are about half set; then level them in the pan. Arrange the cooked onions in a row down the center of the eggs. Roll the omelet out onto a heated serving platter.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Guy Martin, Toute la cuisine, 2003, page 263.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
pavés de bœuf aux oignons, sauce chien
50 ml (313 T)
olive oil
4 medium (5 cm (2 in) )
yellow onions, peeled, cut into 1‑cm (38‑in) wide rings
fine salt
4, about 225 g (about 8 oz) each
thick beef steaks, such as faux‑filets (sirloins)
2 T
grapeseed, or other neutral, oil
freshly ground black pepper
la sauce:
1 clove
garlic, minced
2 T
minced, fresh cilantro
12
jalapeño pepper, stem, seeds, and pith removed, finely diced
1 T
lemon juice
2 T
boiling water
2 T
white wine vinegar
12 t
Dijon‑style mustard
50 ml (313 T)
extra‑virgin olive oil
1 large
hard‑cooked egg, peeled, yolk sieved, white finely chopped
1. 
Preheat the oven to 220°C (430°F).
2. 
Heat the olive oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion rings and a little salt. Stirring often, cook the onions until they are tender and caramelized.
3. 
In the meantime, start the sauce. Combine the garlic, cilantro, pepper, lemon juice, and boiling water in a small bowl. Set aside to infuse for 10 minutes.
4. 
In a second frying pan, heat the grapeseed oil over high heat. Season the steaks on both sides with salt and pepper, and add them to the frying pan. When the first side is well browned, turn the steaks over and place the frying pan in the oven. Cook the steaks until quite rare, about 5 minutes.
5. 
When the steaks are cooked, remove the frying pan from the oven and transfer them to a heated plate. Cover the plate with a large bowl and set them aside to rest for 5 minutes.
6. 
Finish the sauce by diluting the mustard with the vinegar. Whisk the combination together with the oil. Then add the infusion, and the egg.
7. 
When the steaks are done resting, divide the onion rings, in mounds, between heated serving plates. Place a steak on top of each. Spoon the sauce over the steaks.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, August‑September 2005, page 60.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
pissaladière aux oignons
225 ml (1 c)
water
1 t
dehydrated chicken stock
75 g (212 oz)
sun‑dried raisins
900 g (2 lb)
yellow onions, peeled, shredded
12 T
grated fresh ginger
1 T
all‑purpose flour
2 T
sherry vinegar
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper
olive oil
la pâte:
2 t
active dry yeast
155 ml (23 c)
lukewarm water (40 to 43°C [105 to 110°F])
12 t
salt
14 t
sugar
12 T
olive oil
280 g (2 c)
unbleached white flour
1. 
La pâte: dissolve the yeast in the warm water in a warmed mixer bowl.
2. 
Add salt, sugar and olive oil and stir. Slowly add most of the flour while blending with mixer paddle on low speed. Knead the dough either with the mixer, or by hand, until smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Use additional flour as necessary while kneading.
3. 
Place dough in a greased bowl, turning to grease the top of the dough. Let rise in warm place, free from drafts, until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.
4. 
In the meantime, place the water in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the dehydrated chicken stock and stir to dissolve. Add the raisins and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Set aside, in the hot liquid.
5. 
Also in the meantime, heat the oil in a high‑sided frying pan over medium heat. Add the onions and a small pinch of salt. Lower the heat to medium‑low and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions start to get tender. Add the ginger and mix to incorporate. Add the flour and mix to incorporate. Sprinkle the vinegar over the top and mix in. Season with salt and pepper. Cook an additional 10 minutes.
6. 
When the onions are cooked, drain the raisins and add to the onions. Set aside.
7. 
Preheat oven to 230°C (445°F).
8. 
Punch dough down, and roll it out to fit a 23 by 30‑cm (9 by 12‑in) baking sheet, about 3 mm (18 in) thick. Brush baking sheet with oil. Place dough in baking sheet, trim edges, add filling, and level.
9. 
Bake until the crust starts to brown, about 25 minutes. Transfer the tart to a cutting board and let cool to room temperature before serving.
Yield: 6 servings.
Ref: Cuisine et Vins de France, April‑May 2005, page 54.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
pizza paysanne à l’oignon
2 T
butter
750 g (123 lb)
yellow onions, peeled, shredded
150 g (13 lb)
bacon, 6‑mm (14‑in) wide strips
235 ml (1 c)
heavy cream
3
eggs
150 g (13 lb)
Gruyère, coarsely grated
14 t
cayenne pepper
12 t
freshly ground nutmeg
12 t
salt
freshly ground pepper
1 T
minced fresh thyme
la pâte:
2 t
active dry yeast
155 ml (23 c)
lukewarm water (40 to 43°C [105 to 110°F])
12 t
salt
14 t
sugar
12 T
olive oil
280 g (2 c)
unbleached white flour
1. 
La pâte: dissolve the yeast in the warm water in a warmed mixer bowl.
2. 
Add salt, sugar and olive oil and stir. Slowly add most of the flour while blending with mixer paddle on low speed. Knead the dough either with the mixer, or by hand, until smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Use additional flour as necessary while kneading.
3. 
Place dough in a greased bowl, turning to grease the top of the dough. Let rise in warm place, free from drafts, until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.
4. 
Preheat oven to 230°C (445°F).
5. 
Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium‑low heat. Add the onions, cover, and cook until soft and transparent. Stir frequently. Do not brown. Set aside when done.
6. 
In a small sauce pan, bring some water to a full boil. Add bacon and blanch for 2 minutes. Drain well and set aside.
7. 
Place cream in a mixing bowl. Whisk in the eggs. Add the cheese, peppers, nutmeg, and salt. Mix gently with a spatula. Add the onions, bacon and thyme, and mix again.
8. 
Punch dough down, and roll it out to fit a 23 by 30‑cm (9 by 12‑in) baking sheet, about 3 mm (18 in) thick. Brush baking sheet with oil. Place dough in baking sheet, trim edges, add filling, and level.
9. 
Bake until the custard has set, about 20 minutes. Transfer the “pizza” to a cutting board and let cool slightly before serving.
Yield: 6 servings.
Ref: Guide Cuisine, March 1998, page 18, and Kitchen Aid Mixer Recipes & Instructions, 1992, page 58.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
poisson aux épices, oignons confit et jus de pommes
1 T
olive oil
2 large (7 cm [3 in])
red onions, peeled, shredded
2
black grapes, seeds removed
18 t
ground juniper berries
fine salt
1 extra‑large
apple, such as Fuji variety, peeled, cored, and cut for a juicer
1
kumquat, quartered, flesh and seeds removed
25 ml (123 T)
apple‑cider vinegar
18 t
ground coriander
2 T
grapeseed, or other neutral, oil
12 T
Chinese five‑spice powder
2, about 150 g (5 oz) each
fish fillets
1. 
Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over medium‑low heat. Add the onions, grapes, juniper berries, and a little salt to the saucepan. Stir well, cover, and cook the onions until they start to “melt,” about 30 minutes. Stir the onions frequently.
2. 
Juice the apple. Combine the juice with about a third of the pulp, the kumquat, vinegar, and coriander in the bowl of a small food processor. Puree until everything is well blended and the kumquat is reduced to very small pieces. Strain the sauce and set aside.
3. 
Heat the grapeseed oil in a large frying pan over medium‑high heat. Evenly sprinkle the five‑spice over the fish. Cook the fish as appropriate for the variety being used.
4. 
Divide the onions between individual, heated serving plates. Place a fillet on top of each pile of onions. Serve the sauce in small bowls on the side.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, November 2004, page 46.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
salade de oignons rouges, oranges et feta à la paysanne
1 medium, 5 cm (2 in),
sweet, red onion, chilled, peeled, ends trimmed, cut into thin wedges
2 small
tomatoes, cored, cut into 10 or 12 wedges
12 small
fennel bulb, cored, cut into thin strips
1 large
orange, peeled with large knife, sectioned without membranes
50 g (123 oz)
black olives, halved
115 g (4 oz)
feta, cut into 1 cm (38‑in) cubes
1 t
finely minced, fresh oregano
la vinaigrette
3 T
extra‑virgin olive oil
1 T
white wine vinegar
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1. 
Whisk the vinaigrette ingredients together and set aside.
2. 
Place all the ingredients in a bowl and pour the sauce over the top. Gently mix to combine and serve.
Notes: 1) The salad can be chilled before adding the vinaigrette, if desired. 2) If the onion is too sharp, soak the cut pieces in ice water for 10 minutes before using. Drain well.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Saveurs, July‑August 1998, page 38.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
soupe à l’oignon
60 g (4 T)
butter
500 g (118 lb)
yellow onions, peeled, 5‑mm (316‑in) wide shreds
fine salt
12 T
all‑purpose flour
400 ml (123 c)
chicken broth
8 slices, or so
baguette
60 g (2 oz)
comté cheese, grated
freshly ground black pepper
1. 
Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and a pinch of salt. Stir well. Cook for about 15 minutes, until the onions are lightly caramelized. If necessary, turn down the heat to keep the onions from burning. Stir frequently.
2. 
Preheat a broiler.
3. 
Add the flour, stir to combine, and continue cooking for another 5 minutes.
4. 
Slowly incorporate the broth, stirring continually. Increase the heat, bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for another 10 minutes.
5. 
In the meantime, toast the baguette slices under the broiler.
6. 
Divide the soup between serving bowls. Arrange a layer of baguette slices on top of the soup. Sprinkle the grated cheese evenly over the baguette slices. Place the bowls under the broiler for about a minute to melt the cheese. Leave it slightly longer if you want the cheese to brown a bit.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Cuisine et Vins de France, February‑March 2004, page 58.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
soupe crémeuse à l’oignon et au lard
1 thick slice
bacon, cut into 3‑mm (18‑in) cubes
1 T
butter
450 g (1 lb)
yellow onion, peeled, sliced
fine salt
50 ml (313 T)
dry white wine
200 ml (78 c)
whole milk
200 ml (78 c)
chicken stock
2 T
rice flour
freshly ground black pepper
freshly ground nutmeg
35 ml (213 T)
heavy cream
1. 
Fry the bacon bits in a dry frying pan over medium heat until starting to become crisp. Drain and set aside on absorbent paper.
2. 
Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions, sprinkle with a pinch of salt, and cook slowly until soft. Stir often.
3. 
Add the wine and bring to a boil. Cook for about a minute. Add the milk and stock and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer. Sprinkle the rice flour over the soup and stir well. Stir fairly often until the flour no longer settles to the bottom. Cook the onions for about 20 minutes. Add some pepper and nutmeg to taste.
4. 
Transfer the soup to the jar of a blender, add the cream, and puree.
5. 
Strain the puree into a clean saucepan and gently reheat. Taste for salt.
6. 
Serve with the bacon bits sprinkled over the top.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Guide Cuisine, January 2001, page 20.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
steaks d’espadon à la fondue d’oignons
1 T
olive oil
300 g (1012 oz)
yellow onion, peeled, shredded
fine salt
2 T
balsamic vinegar
1 T
capers, rinsed and drained
12 T
coarsely minced fresh oregano
1 T
grapeseed oil
2, about 200 g (about 7 oz) each,
swordfish steaks
freshly ground black pepper
1 T
butter
1. 
Heat the olive oil in a high‑sided frying pan over medium heat. Add the onions and sprinkle lightly with salt. Cook the onions, stirring frequently, until they start to take on color and soften. Add the balsamic vinegar, capers, and oregano and cook a bit more.
2. 
In the meantime, heat the grapeseed oil in a large frying pan over high heat. Season the swordfish steaks on both sides with salt and pepper. Brown the steaks on both sides. Transfer the steaks to the other pan, setting the steaks on top of the onions. Cover the frying pan and cook over low heat until the swordfish is tender, about 5 minutes.
3. 
Transfer the steaks to a heated plate. If necessary, reheat the onions. Off the heat, add the butter and stir to mix. Taste for salt.
4. 
Divide the onion mixture in mounds between heated serving plates. Place a swordfish steak on the top of each mound.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Guide Cuisine, October 2000, page 14.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
tarte à l’oignon
2 T
butter
200 g (14 oz)
yellow onions, peeled, shredded
100 g (7 oz)
smoky bacon, cut crosswise into 3 mm (18 in) wide strips
10 g (2 T)
all‑purpose flour
225 ml (1 c)
whole milk
2 T
heavy cream
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper
la pâte:
125 g (78 c)
all‑purpose flour
70 g (212 oz)
cold butter, diced
14 t
fine salt
2 T
whole milk
1. 
La pâte: place the flour, butter, and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Process until the butter is “cut” into the flour and the mixture is sandy and loose. While continuing to process, slowly add some of the milk. Only add enough until a ball of dough begins to form. Turn off the food processor. Remove the dough and form into a round ball. Wrap tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least an hour.
2. 
In a saucepan, melt the butter over medium‑low heat. Add the onions. Cook until they soften and take on a little color.
3. 
In the meantime, bring a small saucepan of water to a rolling boil. Add the bacon and cook for 3 minutes. Drain well and set aside.
4. 
Preheat the oven to 210°C (410°F).
5. 
Roll the dough out into a circle large enough to line a 21‑cm (8‑in) tart pan with a removable bottom. Place the dough in the pan, trim the edges, and poke holes into the base with a fork.
6. 
When the onions are cooked, sprinkle the flour over them and mix. Slowly add the milk and stir to further dissolve the flour. Add the cream, season with salt and pepper, and cook until thickened. Mix in the bacon. Pour the mixture into the prepared tart shell and level the top.
7. 
Bake the tart for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 180°C (355°F) and bake for another 15 to 20 minutes, until the top starts to brown.
8. 
Set the tart aside to cool for 5 or 10 minutes after removing from the oven. Remove the tart from the pan and place on a cutting board or serving dish. Cut into slices and serve warm.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Cuisiner!, January, 1997, page 16.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
tarte à l’oignon à la sauge et aux anchois
2 T
olive oil
600 g (113 lb)
yellow onions, peeled, shredded
1 large clove
garlic, peeled and lightly smashed
fine salt
leaves from 4 to 8 sprigs
fresh sage, cut into a chiffonade
20
anchovy fillets packed in oil
15
oil‑cured, black olives, pitted, torn into halves
extra‑virgin olive oil, to taste
piment d’Espelette, to taste
la pâte:
2 t
active dry yeast
155 ml (23 c)
lukewarm water (40 to 43°C [105 to 110°F])
12 t
salt
14 t
sugar
12 T
olive oil
280 g (2 c)
unbleached white flour
1. 
La pâte: dissolve the yeast in the warm water in a warmed mixer bowl.
2. 
Add salt, sugar and olive oil and stir. Slowly add most of the flour while blending with mixer paddle on low speed. Knead the dough either with the mixer, or by hand, until smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Use additional flour as necessary while kneading.
3. 
Place dough in a greased bowl, turning to grease the top of the dough. Let rise in warm place, free from drafts, until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.
4. 
In the meantime, heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions, garlic, and a small pinch of salt. Lower the heat to low, cover, and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions “melt,” about an hour. About 5 minutes before the onions are done, remove the lid and increase the heat to high. Stir the onions, almost continuously, until most of the liquid that the onions have released is evaporated. By now, the garlic should be incorporated in the onions. Add some of the sage, about 2 big pinches, and mix. Spread the onion mixture onto a plate to cool.
5. 
Preheat oven with a pizza stone to 230°C (445°F).
6. 
Punch the dough down, and roll it out on a pizza peel into a 30‑cm (12‑in) circle, about 3 mm (18 in) thick. Spread the onion mixture over the surface of the dough to within about 112 cm (58‑in) of the edge. Arrange the anchovy fillets and olive halves over the onions in an attractive manner. Spritz a little oil over the surface, and sprinkle the surface with some piment d’Espelette. Finally, sprinkle some of the remaining sage over the top.
7. 
Transfer the tart to the oven and bake until the edges of the dough are brown and crispy, about 20 minutes. Transfer the tart to a cutting board and cut into 6 wedges. Serve warm.
Yield: 6 servings.
Ref: Cuisiner!, Autumn 1999 Supplement, page 43.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
tarte aux oignions et aux champignons
2 T
butter
2 T
olive oil
250 g (12 lb)
yellow onions, peeled, shredded
fine salt
1 T
minced, fresh oregano
250 g (12 lb) (after cleaning)
portobello mushrooms, stems and gills removed, cut into 5‑mm (316‑in) thick slices
freshly ground black pepper
10
oil‑cured, black olives, pitted, torn in half
la pâte:
1
large egg, beaten
3 T
whole milk
250 g (134 c)
all‑purpose flour
140 g (5 oz)
cold butter, diced
12 t
fine salt
1. 
La pâte: combine the egg and milk in a bowl and set aside. Place the flour, butter, and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Process until the butter is “cut” into the flour and the mixture is sandy and loose. While continuing to process, slowly add some of the egg and milk mixture. Only add enough until a ball of dough begins to form. Turn off the food processor. Remove the dough and form into a round ball. Wrap tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least an hour.
2. 
Heat half the butter and oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the onions, sprinkle with a pinch of salt, and cook slowly until soft. Stir often. Add the oregano to the onions and set them aside on a plate until the dough is baked.
3. 
In the meantime, heat the remaining butter and oil in frying pan over medium heat. Add the mushroom slices, sprinkle with a pinch of salt, and cook slowly until soft and any water released is evaporated. Stir often. Set the cooked mushrooms aside on a plate until the dough is baked.
4. 
Preheat oven to 210°C (410°F).
5. 
Roll the dough out into a large, about 30‑cm (12‑in) circle. Double over the edges as you would for a galette. Transfer the dough to a baking sheet. Poke holes into the base of the tart with a fork. Place in the oven and bake for 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to galette. Transfer the dough to a baking sheet. Poke holes into the base of the tart with a fork. Place in the oven and bake for 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to 180°C (355°F) and bake for an additional 10 minutes.
6. 
Evenly arrange the onions on the base of the tart. Arrange the mushrooms and olives over the onions. Return the tart to the oven and bake for an additional 15 minutes.
7. 
Transfer the tart to a cutting board and cut it into 8 slices. Serve warm.
Note: A thin pizza crust could be used instead of the tart dough.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Cuisine et Vins de France, September‑October 2007, page 69.
©2008, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.