September 12, 2011
Amuse-Bouche
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millefeuille de crabe et pomme
(crab and dried apple napoleon)
Try as I might, I haven’t been able to find the French word for crabapple, which is what I wanted to call this amuse-bouche. There is a the French-Canadian pommetier, but my French friends would say that that’s not really French. Lacking a translation, I have to settle on a more traditional naming convention for this dish of nothing more than layers of dried apple topped with crab salad.
This is also a dish where my natural frugalness didn’t, in the end, compromise the results. I went to buy a fresh crab, spring being crab season here, but when I got to the store I was afflicted with sticker shock. The same Dungeness crabs that were selling for $4 per pound a month earlier were now up to $9 per pound, which would be about $18 per pound of meat. As much as I wanted to use one of these crabs, I knew that a single one would produce about 16 portions and I only needed four (and I’m cheap). I stopped at another store on the way home to buy some other supplies, and just happened to walk by the canned-seafood shelf. Out of curiosity, I bought a can of white crab meat produced in Thailand. It was only $2 for a 170 g (6 oz) can, or a little more than $5 per pound of meat. For $2, I had to buy one and try it.
When I got home, I opened the can and set it to drain in my sink. The more I pressed on the lid to expel the water the crab was packed in, the lower it sank. By the time the water stopped dripping, the crab meat filled only a quarter to a third of the can. Oh well, I thought, it didn't cost me much. The meat was very white and totally flaked. I tasted a bit and it didn’t taste bad, but it didn’t have much flavor. But after adding a little salt and bit of mayonnaise, it was beginning to taste pretty decent. Now my problem became whether this mixture would stay okay until I planned to serve it, which was still five days away.
The other main component of this amuse-bouche is the apple. That I already had on the shelf. A while back I had sliced a red delicious apple very thin and dehydrated the slices. Unlike commercially available dried apple slices, these were very, very thin. I started with a slice that was about 1 mm (125 in) thick and by the time it was dry, the thickness had shrunk to about 14 mm (1100 in). And at this thickness, one apple mades lots and lots of slices.
An hour or so before service, I split a large jalapeño pepper down the center and removed the seeds and pith. Each half was held flat against my cutting board, skin-side down, and the skin was removed with a large chef’s knife. This left two slices that were about 2 mm (112 in) thick. The slices were cut into 2 mm (112 in) cubes and set aside.
When it came time to serve the amuse-bouche, some of the jalapeño cubes were folded into the crab mixture. Three layers were created using an apple slice topped with a dap of the crab salad for each layer. The layers were stacked and pressed down slightly to stabilize them. A few more jalapeño cubes were added to the top for decoration.
I found that these “crabapple” stacks can be eaten with one of two strategies. Either they could be eaten layer by layer or all at once. I liked taking a layer between my fingers and folding it like a taco before eating it in one bit. Very neat. (And that one small can of meat was enough for about 8 portions!)

© 2011 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.