May 28, 2012
Mignardise
http://www.hertzmann.com/articles/miscellany/recipes/img/01106-xl.jpg|800|600
une truffe d’arachide
(a peanut truffle)
I am a bit of a hypocrite. I decry people who produce foods items under names that, to me, don’t look anything like what I think the item should look like. Case in point: truffles. There are many commercial candy makers that sell filled-chocolate candies as truffles because, I assume, they think these will sell better than if they called them something else.
To me, a truffle is a tasty, highly aromatic fungus. A chocolate truffle is a ball of ganache of an irregular shape, dusted with cocoa powder, that resembles the true truffle. A decorated chocolate shell filled with a myriad of flavored fillings is not, in my opinion, a chocolate truffle.
By presenting the following recipe as a truffle, I officially become a hypocrite. Although I could make a case that the finished candies resemble white truffles in appearance, the filling is not a ganache.
My recipe is adapted from one prepared with chestnut cream. I found the recipe on a website called MenuGourmet. The original recipe was called les truffes aux marrons, or chestnut truffles. Who am I to quarrel with a title?
Using the quantities prescribed below, the original recipe claimed to produce 5 truffles. I easily made 15. Since the original recipe did not specify a size, I would assume that if only 5 were made, they’d each be 4-13 cm (1-34-in) in diameter. Still a proper size for a truffle, albeit a more expensive one, but a little large for a mignardise.
50 g (1-34 oz)
chocolate (72% cocoa mass)
30 g (1 oz)
unsalted butter
12 T
cognac
12 T
honey
25 g (910 oz)
unsweetened cocoa powder
75 g (2-58 oz)
unsalted chunky peanut butter
peanut flour
1. Melt the chocolate in a bowl set over simmering water. When melted, mix in the butter.
2. Remove from the heat and mix in in order the cognac, honey, cocoa powder, and peanut butter. When smooth, transfer the mixture to a smaller bowl and set in refrigerator for about 2 hours.
3. Using a 2-12-cm (1-in) scoop, divide the mixture and roll into small balls. Roll in peanut flour to coat.
4. Refrigerate the truffles until about 30 minutes before serving.
Yield: 15 candies.

© 2012 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.